QUICK BURST OF HISTORY
“The empire, long divided, must unite; long united, must divide” according to a famous Chinese book. Therefore, there have been many periods where there were competing and warring regions. The Qin Dynasty (221-207 BC) - started under Qin Shihuangdi (which literally means “the First Emperor”) – was one of the first to consolidate the various states of China. As you can guess, it did not last long and a long period of warring empires followed. Three other dynasties that you often hear about (so that you have a sense of when things date from):
• Tang Dynasty (618-907) is referred to as the Golden Age
• Ming Dynasty lasted from 1368-1644 until it fell to the Manchurians.
• The Manchurians established Qing Dynasty in 1644 which ended with The Last Emperor (as in the movie) in...
• ...1911 when Sun Yat-Sen set up the Republic of China (ROC). In a battle between the Nationalists and the Communists after WWII, however, the Communists won and the Nationalists headed by Chiang Kai Shek fled to Taiwan (which is also referred to as the ROC).
• On October 1, 1949, Mao Zedong gave a speech from the Forbidden City overlooking Tiananmen Square to establish the People’s Republic of China (PRC).
MY TRIP
Xian’s airport - my flight to Guilin is delayed - sitting in the airport listening to the various languages and dialects, again reminding me that Xian is a terminus of the Silk Road. Therefore, it should not necessarily surprise you that earlier today I was strolling through the Muslim Quarter around Xian’s Great Mosque – a 13,000 square meter Muslim/Chinese mix of architecture. As the streets grew narrower, wonderful pungent and spicy smells increased as it was near lunchtime; I saw various broths, meals, and meats being prepared. Many men with white caps worn and scraggly beards with women wearing headdresses. Xian, a city of 6 million mainly Han Chinese, has a 60,000 Muslim population.
These past two days featured highlights from 6,000 years ago (Banpo Village – an excavated ancient village) to 600 years ago as seen in the City Walls which surround central Xian and are lit up at night. The beginning of the Ming Dynasty was also represented by the Bell Tower which was used to indicate that it was morning and the drawbridge to the city could be lowered and the Drum Tower which indicated the reverse, evening.
Of course, the most famous aspect of any visit to Xian are the Terracotta Warriors from the Qin Dynasty. Given the emperor’s status, he was buried with a huge army which was only uncovered in the 1970’s. Thousands of warriors, officials, generals, horses, and even bronze chariots have been unearthed. Sometimes referred to as the Eighth Wonder of the World, it is a truly impressive sight.
The Tang Dynasty was the Golden Age as this was a relatively peaceful time and literature, poetry, and the arts flourished. Thus, I found myself one night enjoying a Tang Dynasty show of dancing, singing, and concert of traditional instruments.
The food is highlighted by Xian’s dumplings, a special type of broth, and more grains/breads than rice, as can be found throughout the north. Rice is more a southern staple.
After the sprawl of the capital and the pollution at Xian (there are various weapons factories that have been converted to car factories in these capitalist times), Guilin was an extremely pleasant change as it is a beautiful green city with lots of parks and lakes. The Li River is a popular trip to admire the karsts (limestone hills and mountains), some of whom resemble The Monkey King, the Old Woman Waiting for her Fisherman, an Elephant, etc. Four hours on the river just relaxing is an extremely good way to spend the morning.
The river trip took me to Yangshuo which is a very famous spot on the backpacker trail and for good reason – extremely laid back and beautiful. More karsts, more green than Guilin, and a small town. Walked through wet markets and around the countryside. That night, returned to Guilin and headed out to the night markets where all of Guilin was enjoying a Saturday night: karaoke on the streets, haggling for some souvenirs and presents, watching whole families enjoying the nice night.
Neither at the night market nor the next morning walking around the lake are areas where many tourists don’t go. Therefore, I was the center of attention for families: grandmothers whispering into babies ears as they looked on wide-eyed (at this weird blond pink creature!), giggling teenage girls asking if they can take a picture with me, bold college students asking if they can speak with me to practice their English, and even a whole 4th grade class surrounding me (“What’s your favorite color?” After I responded “blue” I was accosted with “My favorite color is yellow…blue…green…red… purple…” Ten minutes on they each and every one told me “Wish you a pleasant journey.”) The afternoon, I climbed up peaks for a wonderful view over the river and the city and was a spelunker in Reed Flute Cave (with lots of stalagmites and stalactites which all resembled various things, but with a decidedly Chinese theme).
Friday, November 15, 2002
Monday, July 15, 2002
Shanghai'd
The top Shanghai attractions get all the attention. They really give you a good sense of where Shanghai’s been and where it is heading. For Chinese history, Yu Yuang Garden is the place. Not only is it a classic Chinese garden, with the Old Temple, it is surrounded by a bustling market, a famous teahouse, and a stand that has the best xia long bao (Shanghai’s dumplings) in town. The Bund (Wai Tan) has its British imperialist architecture such as the Peace Hotel, Old HSBC Bank, and other stately buildings, plus Huangpu Park (which used to have an infamous “no dogs or Chinese” sign during the days of the British Concession). It looks directly across the Huangpu River at Pudong, which ten years ago was farmland, and now towers over the Bund with some of the tallest, sleekest buildings in the world like the TV tower and Jin Mao.
However, there’s so much more to see in Shanghai. There’s a great temple which houses the Jade Buddha (there’s very few Buddhist temples in China because the Communists destroyed them all – this temple was saved because they plastered pictures of Mao everywhere), Fuxing Park, the Flower Market, and shikumen (old houses). Not to mention the French Concession still has some French colonial touches (including the old French Club – now a hotel). The Art Institute is located in this Concession as well, housed in the former French Embassy. Besides the institute, there are various galleries throughout the city. The Shanghai Museum helped to teach me a tremendous amount about Chinese history through Coins, Jade, Furniture, Painting, Calligraphy, Seals, the Four Treasures of the Study, Ceramics, Bronze, Sculpture. There was also a very interesting exhibit on Tibet at the museum.
A major Shanghai pastime is shopping. Through shopping and visiting a teahouse, pearl center, and silk shop, I learned a lot about the various Chinese teas, freshwater pearls from the Yangtze River, and the silk making process. Similar to the faceoff between the Bund and Pudong, modern shopping areas (Nanjing Road, Xiantandi) do battle with traditional markets (where I used my haggling skills to buy an old seal, a traditional tea set, and a ‘30s Shanghai Girl poster). Food is also important in Shanghai and it has lots of local favorites – xia long bao, fried noodles, the ubiquitous big family style spread, and other delicacies. I relaxed as well at The Portman Ritz-Carlton (Po Tah Mah), which is very conveniently located next to shopping and the famous Shanghai acrobats plus chockfull of amenities. Friends of mine stayed at the Grand Hyatt (Jin Mao), the highest hotel in the world which has great restaurants and bars.
Shanghai nightlife is great! Unfortunately, it was really foggy so while I made it up to Cloud 9 in Jin Mao (85th floor!) did not see the view, which is supposed to be fantastic. I did have some drinks at the Peace Hotel (and caught the rickety old jazz band) and at M on the Bund (where some friends had gone for dinner). Also went to Face, a house tucked back on some nicely landscaped grounds with great decoration (think India/South East Asia, red walls, old opium den couches, incense) and trance music being spun. Anchoring Lan Kwai Fong in Shanghai is California, a funky place (dark, comfortable couches, and house music) located in Fuxing Park. Around it are Park 97 and Tokyo Joe’s (which are also in Hong Kong’s Lan Kwai Fong). No visit to Shanghai is complete without visiting Mao Ming Lu (and specifically Judy’s Too), a street of bars/clubs that is constantly being shut down by the police. Shanghai parties late and clubs include Buddha Bar/DKD, Pegasus, YY's, and there's always new ones popping up so picking up a guide to the nightlife (That's Shanghai is I think the name) is key.
Shanghai is a city of contrasts. It’s a cosmopolitan city with world class hotels, great nightlife, shopping that compares to anything in not just Hong Kong, but New York and London. It’s newer, glitzier, and flashier than any city I know. Yet, it is also a Communist country. You notice it in the presence of police and the fact that houses are razed to beautify the city (and put in parks). While it feels like you are in a capitalist society, you are in Communist China. When I was struggling to come out with something like “…when the Communists took power”, a local Shanghainese I had met filled in the words “…when the Chinese people were liberated.” I thought that exchange was very interesting, as I had just seen the Tibet exhibit in the Shanghai Museum which had noted that it was being put on to celebrate “the fifty year anniversary of when Tibet was liberated.” Ask the Dalai Lama about that one. When Beijing is awarded the Olympics in 2008 next month and when China becomes a member of the WTO by the end of this year, China’s capitalism will continue to grow and its human rights record will come under increasing scrutiny. How China handles this change will have a huge impact on the next ten years.
However, there’s so much more to see in Shanghai. There’s a great temple which houses the Jade Buddha (there’s very few Buddhist temples in China because the Communists destroyed them all – this temple was saved because they plastered pictures of Mao everywhere), Fuxing Park, the Flower Market, and shikumen (old houses). Not to mention the French Concession still has some French colonial touches (including the old French Club – now a hotel). The Art Institute is located in this Concession as well, housed in the former French Embassy. Besides the institute, there are various galleries throughout the city. The Shanghai Museum helped to teach me a tremendous amount about Chinese history through Coins, Jade, Furniture, Painting, Calligraphy, Seals, the Four Treasures of the Study, Ceramics, Bronze, Sculpture. There was also a very interesting exhibit on Tibet at the museum.
A major Shanghai pastime is shopping. Through shopping and visiting a teahouse, pearl center, and silk shop, I learned a lot about the various Chinese teas, freshwater pearls from the Yangtze River, and the silk making process. Similar to the faceoff between the Bund and Pudong, modern shopping areas (Nanjing Road, Xiantandi) do battle with traditional markets (where I used my haggling skills to buy an old seal, a traditional tea set, and a ‘30s Shanghai Girl poster). Food is also important in Shanghai and it has lots of local favorites – xia long bao, fried noodles, the ubiquitous big family style spread, and other delicacies. I relaxed as well at The Portman Ritz-Carlton (Po Tah Mah), which is very conveniently located next to shopping and the famous Shanghai acrobats plus chockfull of amenities. Friends of mine stayed at the Grand Hyatt (Jin Mao), the highest hotel in the world which has great restaurants and bars.
Shanghai nightlife is great! Unfortunately, it was really foggy so while I made it up to Cloud 9 in Jin Mao (85th floor!) did not see the view, which is supposed to be fantastic. I did have some drinks at the Peace Hotel (and caught the rickety old jazz band) and at M on the Bund (where some friends had gone for dinner). Also went to Face, a house tucked back on some nicely landscaped grounds with great decoration (think India/South East Asia, red walls, old opium den couches, incense) and trance music being spun. Anchoring Lan Kwai Fong in Shanghai is California, a funky place (dark, comfortable couches, and house music) located in Fuxing Park. Around it are Park 97 and Tokyo Joe’s (which are also in Hong Kong’s Lan Kwai Fong). No visit to Shanghai is complete without visiting Mao Ming Lu (and specifically Judy’s Too), a street of bars/clubs that is constantly being shut down by the police. Shanghai parties late and clubs include Buddha Bar/DKD, Pegasus, YY's, and there's always new ones popping up so picking up a guide to the nightlife (That's Shanghai is I think the name) is key.
Shanghai is a city of contrasts. It’s a cosmopolitan city with world class hotels, great nightlife, shopping that compares to anything in not just Hong Kong, but New York and London. It’s newer, glitzier, and flashier than any city I know. Yet, it is also a Communist country. You notice it in the presence of police and the fact that houses are razed to beautify the city (and put in parks). While it feels like you are in a capitalist society, you are in Communist China. When I was struggling to come out with something like “…when the Communists took power”, a local Shanghainese I had met filled in the words “…when the Chinese people were liberated.” I thought that exchange was very interesting, as I had just seen the Tibet exhibit in the Shanghai Museum which had noted that it was being put on to celebrate “the fifty year anniversary of when Tibet was liberated.” Ask the Dalai Lama about that one. When Beijing is awarded the Olympics in 2008 next month and when China becomes a member of the WTO by the end of this year, China’s capitalism will continue to grow and its human rights record will come under increasing scrutiny. How China handles this change will have a huge impact on the next ten years.
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