Monday, July 14, 2003

Paulistas and Cariocas

Returning to Brazil from Bolivia, I once again arrived in Sao Paulo. This city, the New York of Brazil, is its country's financial center packed with exclusive clubs, trendy bars, and the latest restaurants. As in any large city (and Sao Paulo is the second largest city in the world), there is a distinct difference of classes. Everyone who can afford it moves around by tinted windowed car which are parked by valets. While stopped at red lights, people ranging from little kids to old men will try to sell everything from the ubiquitous Chiclets to toys to cell phone charges. Meanwhile, teenagers will juggle tennis balls hoping to receive a few reals.

Other places in the Southeast of Brazil which I visited included the old colonial towns in Minas Gerais and along the coast. In Minas Gerais, old mining towns including Tiradentes and Ouro Preto developed in the 17th and 18th Centuries. After the mines dried up, these towns were virtually abandoned. However, that helped preserve their historical nature. Hilly streets covered by cobblestone lead to churches, stately mansions, and old government buildings. From the mines in the hills, the gold that was discovered had to be brought to the ports in order to ship back to Europe. This old Caminho de Ouro (Gold Trail), led to the colonial port of Paraty. Surrounded by craggy rocks, soaring green mountains, and beautiful beaches, this old town is also preserved. It is now a tourist destination for Paulistas, Cariocas, and international travelers. The town is dotted with pousadas (small hotels), restaurants, and craft shops, plus in the bay are countless islands, beaches, and boats to take you to them all.

Rio de Janeiro, la Cidade Maravhilosa, is a truly marvelous city which has a near-perfect combination of natural beauty, magnificent beaches (with girls in extremely small bikinis), nightlife, and city atmosphere. Relaxing on two of the most famous beaches in the world, Copacabana and Ipanema, overlooked by Christ the Redeemer on top of Corcavado, while Sugarloaf Mountain (Pao de Acucar) provided the classic sunset and nighttime view over the city was an excellent way to spend the days during my last week in Brazil. Of course, no visit to Rio is complete without catching a futbol game at Maracana - in which I saw Bahia lose to Fluminense. The nightlife in Rio is legendary. While here, friends made sure to take me out to trendy restaurants, bars, and clubs, plus some old-school favorites to show me how Cariocas live.

Brazil has a lot of problems, as do many developing countries in South America. Its GDP per capita of $7,400 ranks right around the world average and there is a vast difference between the poor living in favelas and the more well off living in guarded, gated apartments of Rio and Sao Paulo. However, trying to sum up Brazil is very difficult. The country is comprised of disparate groups of people and cultures. From caboclos in Amazonia to blonde-haired girls in Floripa. African-influenced food and song in Bahia to forro akin to country music even further north. Rio's beach culture to Sao Paulo's financial prowess. However, Brazilians have many similarities. To me, it seemed that there is an unflagging optimism about the future and a love of life as seen in everything from an enjoyment of sports, attacking a churrascario with gusto, drinking caiparinhas, to dancing to the wee hours of the morning. Lula, the recently elected populist president, will guide Brazil over the next years and Brazil-watchers both internally and externally are waiting to see how his bold promises will pan out.