Tales of the South Pacific

The dark blue to purple South Pacific gives way to aqua and turquoise waters of lagoons broken by a white line of waves breaking on reefs. In the middle of the clear waters of the lagoon are islands with green mountains rising high, often encircled by clouds. The beaches are white and yellow sands, with swaying palm trees. These were the images over the past month as I spent time in Tahiti, Moorea, Huahine, Raiatea, Bora Bora, Maupiti, and Rarotonga.

Each of the islands is more beautiful than the next and each have their own character. Tahiti, and especially its capital Papeete, is the bustling center of French Polynesia. Moorea, just half an hour away by boat, is more relaxed than Tahiti. Raiatea is the ancient Hawaiki, which is sacred to Polynesians everywhere (including Hawaiians and the Maori of New Zealand). Bora Bora is deservedly famous for its beautiful lagoon, the best of all the islands. Maupiti is a tiny island that is very undeveloped and is covered with beautiful flowers. While Polynesia has a heavy French influence, Rarotonga has a decidedly English and Kiwi bent.

On these islands, I was able to hike to ancient marae, bike around the islands, and explore the interiors. However, spending time in the lagoons is what is really the best about the islands. From boating in outrigger canoes to swimming underwater, I explored each of the lagoons. I was able to see mulit-colored corals and numerous tropical fish. The highlights included swimming with black-tipped sharks and sting rays.

Several islands are very developed like Tahiti and Bora Bora. In fact, Bora Bora has three more resorts slated to be completed in the next years by the Intercontinental, Ritz-Carlton, and the Four Seasons. Each of these hotels will have more than 100 bungalows each. Some islands, like Huahine and Maupiti are very undeveloped, with Maupiti having taken a "no hotels" policy and having only simple pensions. I preferred the latter.

Of all the islands, though, Huahine was my favorite. Here, life is on a slower pace and I was able to meet many of the people who live on the island. I rented a bike and drove around the island watching families gather for spirited games of petanque and being invited to test my jumping abilities on a bike course laid out by local kids. I heard a church before I came to it. It was a Sunday and rising from the attendants beautiful Polynesian hymns were being sung. I slowed to a halt and just listened. Then, as the service was ending, all the mainly older women came out in brightly covered pareos. In Huahine and elsewhere I mainly ate at roulottes, where most of the locals gathered every night to eat fresh seafood. My favorite was poisson cru: raw tuna prepared in lime juice, coconut milk, and fresh vegetables.

I also got a lasting reminder of my trip to Polynesia in Huahine. I found out that most wood-carved tikis are actually made in Indonesia or China, and decided I wanted a piece of art that was actually made in Polynesia. Polynesians invented the tattoo years ago. George, the tattooist, has half his body covered in tattoos: representing his Polynesian past. His un-tattooed side represents the more Western future. Two days after I got the tattoo, I ran into George at a local breakfast spot and his friends admired his handiwork: the tiki on my ankle.