The Spice Islands and Siam

Indonesia is an archipelago that, for many people, may conjure up images of al-Qaeda operatives plotting to do harm to the West. Once again finding myself in a Muslim country (after Egypt and Morocco last year), I found that that is far from the truth. Instead, I was welcomed with open arms everywhere. I was rushed by people, not in hatred but in a genuine desire to practice English. Sometimes I was not rushed but snuck up on because a group of schoolchildren would shyly ask if they could take a picture with me.

After a weekend in Jakarta, I went to Central Java. In Jakarta I happened to run into 2 friends from Bali. Luckily for me, one of them (Nur) was going to Central Java as well. She, along with her friends, took me to all the places I will mention below plus to little road-side restaurants (often just sitting on mats) where I was introduced to Indonesian foods such as soto and bakso. They also tried to teach me Bahasa Indonesian. Yogyakarta and Solo, two cities in Central Java where sultans still live, are the focal points of Central Java. Surrounding these towns are the ubiquitous terraced rice paddies, soaring mountains, thundering waterfalls, and even active volcanoes. In addition, the beach is relatively nearby as well (given Muslim sensibilities, all the kids on the beach were fully clothed - even if they were in the ocean).

The highlights of my trip to Java took place on 2 separate days. In this 90% Muslim country, I found myself one day in a 9th Century Hindu temple (Prambanan) and the next day in a 9th Century Buddhist temple (Borobodur). These temples, built within 50 years of each other, point out the melting pot of religions that helped shape Indonesia: Hinduism and Buddhism from India spread throughout South East Asia and beyond. Those two religions were followed by Islam which took hold in most of Indonesia, but not in Hindu Bali. However, traditional Indonesian beliefs remain to this day so nature is respected and honored in various ceremonies. The blending of religions leads to dichotomous carvings and statues throughout the temples, such as local gods' statues inside Prambanan and Borobodur or lotus leaf symbols (traditionally Buddhist) inside Prambanan.

Apart from the very southern tip bordering Malaysia, Thailand is a Buddhist country. In previous visits, I had spent many hours in various wats dotted throughout the country. On this trip, though, I spent time in Kanchanaburi and Hua Hin. Of course, I also was in Bangkok where I overlapped with some friends from Hong Kong.

Kanchanaburi is well-known for the Bridge on the River Kwai. Besides often crossing it on foot (hopping from one trellis to the next), I also took the notorious Death Railway, which got its name due to the many POW's that died in constructing the WWII railroad for the Japanese. I headed in the direction of Burma but did not make it all the way to the now-called Myanmarr. Instead, I stopped in the jungle where waterfalls flowed and streams converged.

Hua Hin I had been to before, and used it as a way to relax on the beach after all the touring the previous weeks. Stopping in Bangkok one last time, I then flew on to Hong Kong.