The IPR Guide to San Francisco (and Beyond): November 2006

Thursday, November 30, 2006

Aqua

One restaurant in the Financial District that stands out and has stood the test of time is Aqua (252 California Street). I first ate here 6 years ago during the first dot-com boom, and even then it had already been around 9 years. At 15 years, Aqua is still going strong - even through changes of chefs and changing trends amongst other restaurants.

If you put stock into what various guides say, Aqua is ranked very high. Zagat's has Aqua in its top 10 San Francisco fine dining experiences and the Michelin Guide has Aqua in the top 5 restaurants in the entire Bay Area.

All of those high rankings do mean that it's expensive. Therefore, if you are someone who does not necessarily care for impeccable service and stunning decor (and paying up for that), this is not the place for you. If, however, you are someone who does care for that and tremendous seafood, then this is definitely a place you would want to go: special date, celebrating a business deal, or when the 'rents are in town.

So, what is the food? It's seafood, prepared in a California way with French overtones. Expect appetizers like hamachi with kaffir lime, albacore carpaccio, and even foie gras. Entrees run the gamet from ahi tuna to lobster (with ginger and bok choy) to more exotic offerings. An amazing wine list hitting all corners of the globe pairs up with all the seafood. They also have multi-course tasting menus in which the sommelier will help you pair each course with a different wine.

Wednesday, November 29, 2006

I wear my stunna glasses at nite

Fuck, boca's closing.

Last time I was there it all started at Harry's Bar (2020 Fillmore, no website) where I had some sliders and a few beers. Met up with some buddies of mine. The night continued on to R Bar (1176 Sutter - no website). Now, R Bar is known for a few things and it just meant more drinks for all of us. This place is a classic - make sure you check it out.

While there, we ran into some friends-of-friends who told us about the two year anniversary of Element Lounge. We hung out, met some young ladies from Reno, and eventually moved on to Lush Lounge - I'm not a big fan of this place. Whatever, one of my buddies was drunk and it was on the way BACK to R Bar. So, back in R Bar. Good god. It was a rough night, but it did not end there.

I continued on to boca. They had a friggin' bouncy castle inside the bar. boca WAS one of my favorite places in the city - a very mixed crowd of hipsters and hip-hoppers and and art fans and booze fans and post-Warfield-concert-goers and lesbians making out on the dance floor and pre-Club-goers and post-bar-goers. The place itself is run by these guys and has rotating artwork on the walls. Plus, they manage to attract DJ's from all over. I don't know where in 2007 it will resurface.

Name of this post? One of the DJ's at boca played the song.

Tuesday, November 28, 2006

Cafe Algiers

So, after a huge Thanksgiving dinner & lots of drinking this past weekend, I'm back.

I thought that this week I'd focus on downtown, the Financial District - the FiDi if you will. My favorite place, if not one of my favorite places in the city, is Cafe Algiers (50 Beale Street - no website). It's small, even cramped and family-owned.

It's a real mish-mash of people, actually from the Algerian owner to the various people who have strayed from all over the world arrayed behind the lunch counter. Their coffee is excellent (don't just take my word for it - go to http://coffeeratings.com/ and you'll likely see them in 3rd place).

I often come in for a single shot of espresso as I wait for my bagel to be toasted. They put on some shmear, a healthy serving of lox, some tomato, a bit of pepper, and of course a heaping spoonful of capers. Other people I see going for the croissants or other pastries. For lunch, you can't go wrong any of their sandwiches, but especially their spicey turkey.

Monday, November 20, 2006

You can read it here first, or you can wait...

...for magazines like 7x7 to catch on to what's going in the lounge scene or SF Chronicle to find out what's going on in wine bars.

Probably better to read it here first...

Sunday, November 19, 2006

Epic Sundays

Last year, May had five Sundays in it. San Francisco and the Bay Area have so much to offer. These Sundays were spent with one other person, a few friends, or a large group of friends.

First Sunday, May 1. Drive up the 1 through the Marin Headlands and beyond to finally stop at Tomales Bay. This picturesque bay is known for its oysters. A beach spreads out where you find picnic tables and small barbecues. Fresh oysters directly from the bay are dropped on each barbecue until the shells pop open. It's all very simple and anything beyond oysters (drinks, salads, etc.) is brought from home. Drive back down the 1 to Rodeo Beach for a look through the Golden Gate Bridge over San Francisco and then a bright fiery sunset over the Pacific. Dinner was from my favorite restaurant in Sausalito - Fish (think freshest seafood possible, redwood picnic tables, and wine or beer out of mason jars).

Second Sunday, May 8. It rained actually, but the day before I saw the Washington DC Nationals and SF Giants engage in a classic back-and-forth battle at PacBell, I mean SBC, I mean AT&T Park. I'm not sure if a baseball stadium is better than this one - it's a retro-park that not only sits right smack in the heart of the city, but is on the Bay itself. A 15-minute stroll down the Embarcadero brings you to the Ferry Building where the MarketBar beckons with its excellent appetizers and wide selection of wines.

Third Sunday, May 15. Bay to Breakers. A 12 kilometer (7.5 mile) run or walk from the SF Bay to the ocean. Tortillas are thrown, people dress up in costume (or run naked), bands play along the route, DJ's spin, and everyone has a good time. Afterwards, at Footstock, I relaxed with a beer, had a burrito and checked out some bands.

Fourth Sunday, May 22. After the night before attending a wedding at Auberge du Soleil, the day was focused on hitting Napa's wineries. Cakebread Cellars, Duckhorn Vineyards, and Bremer Family should be on everyone's short list of places to taste. And Sterling, while not the greatest wines, does have an unbeatable view. Then, the evening was spent in Sausalito at a friend's housewarming party/barbecue under a (nearly) full moon.

Fifth Sunday, May 29. From the 101 south, a winding drive through the hills along 17 down to Santa Cruz for good old-fashioned boardwalk on the beach action. Then a drive along the coast on the classic PCH Route 1 to Half Moon Bay, where just beyond you find yourself at the Moss Beach Distillery. There, while sipping a beer and munching on fried artichoke hearts, you can lean back in chairs made for 2 under a blanket, watching pelicans fly by and sailboats float by as the sun sets over the Pacific. A drive back along another winding road (92) brings you back to the 101 and back up into San Francisco.

Friday, November 17, 2006

Who are Tony and Nik?

A block up from Washington Square, on Stockton, is a tiny little place. It's far from the craziness of Columbus Avenue, even though it's only a block away.

A neighborhood drop-in, the local, but with a bit of style thrown in, Tony Nik's (1534 Stockton, no website) has been operating since the 1930's and it's a real throwback to what a bar should be: bartenders who give good service, strong drinks, and that's pretty much it.

Hanging out at the bar works well when you're there with some friends, but if you want some more privacy head to the back for the tables tucked away with some candles. The crowd is very mixed - I don't feel it gets too many tourists, age range is from young to old, many people looking for that drink to start the night, or to end the evening.

Mad props to Lisa Mao, as this is her favorite bar in the city.

Thursday, November 16, 2006

Italian Restaurant in North Beach

How do you pick and choose amongst the Italian restaurants in North Beach. There are several great options mixed in with the touristy ones.

I have not been to Trattoria Contadina (but friends all highly recommend it). Mario's Bohemian is a great place for a snack (think paninis or a plate of lasagna). MangoRosa actually is only half Italian (and half Brazilian) - they somehow pull it off, the food is excellent. For a classic, hearty Southern Italian meal, Tomasso's is your best bet and they've been around for over 70 years.

My favorite place, though, is Ristorante Ideale (1309 Grant Ave, no website). The food is tasty and the service is excellent. The wine list is fairly extensive and well-priced. The waiters spend time with you helping to understand the specials.

I'd highly recommend their pear/mascarpone/prosciutto as an appetizer. Find out what the specials are, or go with one of their pasta dishes (pumpkin ravioli is very good). They have a host of classic Italian desserts, and if you've been having some wines the waiters will probably bring over a shot of lemon liquer over to end the meal.

The portions are not heavy and not huge - it's very European in that sense. In addition, I believe the waitstaff is all from Italy, which adds to the authenticity of this place.

Wednesday, November 15, 2006

My favorite place in North Beach

I was having dinner on Sunday night at Burma Superstar in the Inner Richmond (review will come up in the next few weeks), when my friend and I got to talking about different neighborhoods. One we started to talk about was North Beach.

North Beach, for me, has been the entryway into San Francisco. A friend of mine has lived for years in an apartment on Stockton near Chestnut and I've crashed on her couch time and again before I moved here. Then, when I did move to the Bay Area two friends of mine were living at that apartment and I ended up crashing there again from time to time.

I always liked to walk from her place down Stockton, past the big church where Marilyn Monroe and Joe Dimaggio got married, along Washington Square (pausing to watch the tai chi practitioners), up Union Street, along the shops of Grant, and arrive at a place that's survived the test of time.

It's 50 years since they introduced the West Coast to espresso, and Caffe Trieste is still going strong. Yes, it's overrun by tourists, I know that. But if you have a chance to go by during the day and sit and just observe, you'll see the tourists flit in and out. What remains and what sits there for hours on end is a true neighborhood of San Francisco originals.

There's the painter, the crazy guy, the two guys who always bicker, the bedraggled looking hippie who just happens to be a famous poet, the woman with the dogs, and on and on. There's true cameraderie amongst these lost souls, who find family in a coffee shop in North Beach.

This little coffee shop in this neighborhood made me realize San Francisco is very different from most other cities in the US. There's a real European aspect to this city. Sure, the architecture reminds some people of Europe, but to me it's the people - especially those that gather here. It's the pace of life, it's the wanting to connect with others over, simply, a cup of coffee.

This post should be about lunch, but the food's so-so. Maybe this will do? They don't have non-fat milk, so order up a real cappucino, sit back for a couple hours, and enjoy.

Tuesday, November 14, 2006

Monday, November 13, 2006

Check out Live Music

San Francisco has a great local music scene, plus bands come through here all the time.

What's coming up? I'm signed up for Filter Magazine's weekly San Francisco newsletter (info@filter-mag.com), plus I go to SF Weekly, the Guardian, SF Gate, Live105's concert calendar, and Pollstar for information on upcoming gigs.

Here are the venues I find myself at more often than not. They are ranked roughly in size and should give you a sense of what type of band (local, indie-up-and-coming, has-a-hit-video-on-youtube, has-a-hit-video-on-MTV, up to well-known).

Very small venues - mainly local music
Boom Boom Room - small, blues joint across the street from the Fillmore
Hemlock - punk in the Tenderloin
Make Out Room - mainly local music (various types of rock and pop) in the Mission
Elbo Room - also in the Mission, bit more jazz and dub thrown in with the rock and pop

Small venues - mix of local, West Coast (LA, Portland, Seattle), and a smattering of national or international up-and-coming indie bands
330 Ritchie a/k/a Popscene gets some of the best up-and-coming bands from all over the world (they also have a weekly party called Leisure which focuses on all the UK music from the 90's)
Cafe Du Nord - feels like you're in somebody's basement living room in the Castro (bands seen: Cold War Kids, Dr. Dog)
Bottom of the Hill - in Potrero Hill, perhaps SF's most beloved live music venue?
The Independent - on Divis, you can catch a band on the rise or on the slide back into obscurity
Mezzanine - while it gets its share of rock bands, this place focuses on electronic and hip-hop
Slim's - on Folsom and 11th, features indie rock & pop and a bit of everything else (bands seen: Kid Beyond)

Bigger Venues - more well-known bands
Great American Music Hall - my favorite venue, in the Tenderloin - mainly indie rock & pop (bands seen: OK Go, Fiery Furnaces)
The Warfield - a classic theater where bands who are really breaking big play (bands seen: Arctic Monkeys, Franz Ferdinand)
Bill Graham Civic Auditorium - impersonal big box, unfortunately (bands seen: Beck, Franz Ferdinand)
The Greek Theater - a 100+-year old outdoor amphitheater on Berkeley's campus (bands seen: Manu Chao)
The Fillmore - the venerable place that has a great sense of its history (check out all the classic posters through the years) as much as it's a place for bands currently making a name for themselves (bands seen: Bloc Party, Mogwai, Wolf Parade)

Places I want to check out but have not been include Yoshi's (jazz in the East Bay) and the Rickshaw Stop (in Hayes Valley).

Friday, November 10, 2006

Wish

This place is tiny. That's a good thing. You WILL meet other people, that's guaranteed. The drinks are strong. Wish is located at 1639 Folsom.

It's a very chill vibe in here, very San Francisco but there's definitely an LA or NYC twist. You have a good mix of 20-year olds and 30-year olds, people just looking to have a few drinks, some people looking to get they groove on early, and others just looking to chill out on the comfortable couches. You even have some hipsters post-Slim's show and club kids pre-1015 thrown in for good measure.

Get here early and it's very loungey, some house beats playing in the back. As the night moves on, it gets more and more crowded and the beats pick up. Some dancing starts (aided of course by the drinks). The bartenders know how to make drinks. They are also very willing to try out their new concoctions on you!

Very friendly in a hipster, chilled out way. Enjoy.

Thursday, November 09, 2006

Stunna Sushi

You may have been to the Sushi Groove over in Russian Hill - been there for years - an old standby. You may usually head over to Folsom around 3rd, 4th, 5th Streets rather than this part of Folsom (near 11th Street) for dinner. But, there are good spots around. Marona's on the corner of Folsom and 11th is one of the best Thai restaurants in town (see my lunch post from yesterday).

So, this Sushi Groove (called Sushi Groove South - 1516 Folsom Street - no website) has a good ratio of fresh sushi and sashimi, great vibe, good crowd, and bangin' beats.

But, you may ask: is this real authentic Japanese sushi? Yes and no. Their sushi and sashimi is fresh. But really it's all about crazy rolls and other weird concoctions that would shock a true sushi afficionado. But come on, you're either sitting at the bar or at some table listening to a dj spin some tunes while drinking sake cocktails like lemon ginger snap. Afterwards, you're going to be heading off to Butter, Slim's or Wish (see tomorrow's post for that).

This is what I'd recommend. Start off with some edamame and a sake cocktail (or ask for an unfiltered sake). Kick back, put on your stunnas, listen to some mashups, get mashed up on some drinks. At some point, lob in an order for rolls - dragon, spider, all your favorites and ones you'd not thought of. Make sure to get some sashimi or sushi as well.

Wednesday, November 08, 2006

You can get lunch on Folsom?

I'm usually here at night. Either going to catch a show at Slim's, or a drink over at Wish. Maybe a bite to eat several blocks down at Oola or Azie. Or over at Sushi Groove South, once even at Sneaky Tiki's. Late, late night of course 1015 beckons.

But lunch? Who comes here during the day? There's that crepe truck, but I don't know if they're open during the day. However, one great place to go is Manora's.

This excellent Thai place has been around for years. It's on 1600 Folsom Street and has no website. A friend of mine introduced me to this place. First meal there I tried out with her, we had the usual Thai meal: pad thai, duck curry, and washed it down with a Thai iced tea. Their pad thai is teeming with prawn, tofu, peanuts, bean sprouts, and lots of other delicious bits of goodness. Their duck curry was spicy/sweet. And their iced tea was the way it should be.

I've been back to try out different parts of their menu (yum ma keur - eggplant, chicken, prawn in a sauce, soups, and things that I don't know how to pronounce, even a clay pot) and different drinks (good selection of Thai beers like Singha). Their desserts are excellent too (fried banana with ice cream, for example).

You can definitely come for dinner, but they have amazing lunch deals - specials that are priced ridiculously cheap!

Tuesday, November 07, 2006

Perfect Weekend in Healdsburg

Healdsburg is surrounded by 3 distinct and different valleys: Dry Creek, Alexander, and Russian River. This allows you to explore one valley at a time and return to Healdsburg in the evening.

BREAKFAST
There are a host of cafes in Healdsburg with some focusing more on fresh-baked bread, others more on good coffee. Take your pick. Center Street Cafe for an eggs-and-bacon type breakfast.

LUNCH
As the valleys do not really have any places to go for lunch, it's best to do a picnic. Stopping off at Oakville Grocery (in Healdsburg) or the Jimtown Store (in Alexander Valley) and then hitting one of the wineries with picnic tables is the way to go. Try Lambert Bridge (Dry Creek) for example.

WINERIES hit in each valley

DRY CREEK VALLEY
Ferrari-Carano - over-the-top Tuscan-style villa with views / wines generally so-so, but v good affordable Syrah
Preston - bit disapointed in the wines, but nice bucolic setting
Lambert Bridge - do the reserve tasting, wonderful setting
A. Rafanelli - small, family-owned, v good cabs, merlot, and zin (by appointment only)
Yoakim Bridge - even smaller, less than 2000 cases a year, great zins + great spicy meatballs!

ALEXANDER VALLEY
Stryker - great views of the Alexander Valley, but the wines are so-so
Jordan - this was probably the 2nd favorite - Tom Jordan's French country manor w/a small tour of the grounds, excellent cabs and chardonnay / tasting is done in library with couches (by appointment only)
Alexander Valley - some good picnic tables, did not go and taste
Simi - it's big, impersonal, and the wines are not so good, apparently the tour is good

RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY
J - this was everyone's favorite. They do food pairings with tastings. Known for their brut, but all their wines are excellent esp their Nicole's Vineyard Pinot Noir. FYI - the J stands for Judy Jordan, Tom Jordan's daughter.
Hop Kiln - nice setting, inexpensive wines
Gary Farrell - stunning views and excellen pinot noirs

OTHER ACTIVITIES
Lake Sonoma has good hiking trails with expansive views over the lake and surrounding area
Armstrong Redwood Park has hiking trails among the redwoods.
The main square in Healdsburg usually has something going on - whether it's some type of market or even Shakespeare in the Park

LOUNGES in Healdsbug
Barndiva (outdoor garden)
Hotel Healdsburg lobby (big fireplace)
Lots of tasting rooms as well, but they usually close by 5.30

DINNER in Healdsburg:
Willi's Seafood (tapas and oysters - absolute favorite place to go)
Zin (pork chops, steaks + big zins to go with them)
Manzanita (wood-fired pizza and straightforward dishes)
Dry Creek Kitchen (high end dining - Charlie Palmer is the chef - did not end up going)

Monday, November 06, 2006

Perfect Weekend in Mendocino

Quick overview and tips about Mendocino wine country (a.k.a. Anderson Valley).

Up the 101 from San Francisco to Healdsburg. Good place to make a stop. We hit the main plaza where there's lots of restaurants/cafes/shops to choose from.

Continue up the 101 to Cloverdale and then to 128. The 128 is a great, curving road that takes you from vineyards with commanding views to the redwood forests so thick that you need your headlights on.

Along the 128 is also where you'll find the Anderson Valley wineries. Most are old-school, laid-back, good times. No annoying tasting fees, good conversation usually. Also, most places have amazing views or cool orchards with picnic tables. There's not really any restaurants or lunch spots (or not many at least). Therefore, make sure you have a picnic packed - another reason to stop at Healdsburg in other words.
Wineries hit:
-Navarro (I love these guys, especially their pinot noir)
-Greenwood Ridge (right next door to Navarro, with a pond as well, wines are ok but nothing spectacular)
-Husch (the best tiny tasting room you'll ever come across)

There's also:-Handley Cellars (no view, seemed a bit tired, we arrived, parked, and did not taste after we walked in briefly)
-Goldeneye (this is part of Duckhorn)
-Roederer Estate (looks big and imposing / kind of out of place)
-Scharffenberger (champagne)
-several that you need an appointment for

Then continued on the 128 to the 1. We then took the 1 a few miles north through Albion and into Little River. In Little River we stayed at Heritage House. The Heritage House has amazing views over the cove, fireplace in the room, very quiet (no TV / no phone). The night sky in Mendocino/Little River was spectacular as you might imagine.

We had dinner in Mendocino which is only a few miles north along the 1. We first walked/drove around town. We found a very casual place with a deck that overlooked the Pacific where we had a drink. Dinner reservations at Cafe Beaujolais. Excellent food / warm / inviting / they use all organic ingredients and the food was fresh. Excellent wine list - that of course highlights the local vineyards, but is not limited to just those. Next door is 955 Ukiah which seemed to be a good spot as well.

The next day we had a big breakfast and took it easy in the morning, not getting on the road until noon. We drove down the 1 in beautiful sunny weather (hit a patch of fog once) doing the usual thing of making stops where we wanted, hiked down to a beach, took lots of pictures, checked out the Pt Arenas lighthouse, hit Bodega Bay, etc.

Sunday, November 05, 2006

Friday, November 03, 2006

Go see OK Go!

OK Go was back in San Francisco last night, playing at the venerable Great American Music Hall. While they did not recreate this video on treadmills, they did close out the show by recreating this video dancemove-by-dancemove on stage.

Go see them when they come to your town.

Best wine bar in the city!

Hotel Biron is neither a hotel nor located in southwestern France. Biron is located halfway between Cognac and Bordeaux and that should give you a tipoff that this is a wine bar. Around the corner from Zuni Cafe, tucked down an alley, you see a fairly nondescript door with an orange sign jutting out simply stating b.

This cozy, intimate place is another excellent choice for starting a night out right. Their wine list is limited, but varied enough (and constantly changing) to keep it interesting. What's interesting about their wine list is that they usually mix and match local wines with wines from France. Often, you'll end up in a wine bar that's very heavily local focused or very heavily French focused. Hotel Biron allows you to compare a pinot noir from, say, Sonoma to a burgundy.

You can also order a plate of cheese (usually accompanied with some bread and fruit) to make this an appetizer place before heading off to one of the many restaurants around. Note also that the art on the wall rotates out every month or so, highlighting different local artists.

Thursday, November 02, 2006

Almost too many choices in Hayes Valley for dinner!

Given that there are so many choices of eating out in Hayes Valley, I thought I would quickly review 4 different places that should fit different budgets.

Starving Student - Under $15 - I love Frjtz. I love that they serve savory (I prefer ham, gruyere, and egg) and sweet (NUTELLA!) crepes. I love that they have a tiny little area with mismatched chairs and tables, and even a little area to lounge on. I love their patio bathed in sunshine. But most of all, I love that they serve Belgian fries with mayo. Have a Belgian beer like Chimay or Duvel to wash it all down (come on, you can get Stella everywhere).

Group of Friends - Under $30 - Before I moved to SF, I went out with a group of people sitting at a communal table, drinking steins of beers, eating weiner schnitzel and spatzle. If you want hearty meals, good atmosphere, and a place where you can easily bring your 10 closest friends and then meet the others sitting next to you, go to Suppenkuche. Obviously, great selection of German beers.

Great Date Place - Under $40 - So, I still don't quite understand exactly why this restaurant is called Sauce. There's not a different sauce highlighted with every dish, nor are any of the dishes overpowered by any sauce. Highlights here are definitely the appetizers (in fact, I would prefer this place to become a small plates share the food type of place). Their wine list is excellent.

Have your Sugar Daddy or Sugar Mama take you - $50 or higher - The classic. The old standby. Zuni Cafe (no website - 1658 Market / 415-552-2522) has been in business since 1979. And no wonder! Nothing spectacular jumps out at you from the menu. But, whether it's their oysters-on-the-half-shell, their roast chicken, their burgers, or their shoestring fries, one bite and you'll understand why they've lasted for so long. And Alice Waters' partner-of-20-years from Chez Panisse just came aboard last month. Drinks excellent here too.

Wednesday, November 01, 2006

What the flip were you doing in Hayes Valley?

Heck yeah, Flippers (no website - 482 Hayes St) is one of the best places to go for a burger. Excellent, well made, tasty. Gosh!

But, even better is to go there in order to cure the previous night's hangover. Whether you wake up at 9 or 4, they'll still be serving breakfast (pretty much all day). Kick it off with a mimosa or a never-ending-cup of coffee. You could make it a latte, even a soy latte or skim latte. But, is that 'cause you think you're fat? 'Cause you're not. You could be drinking whole if you wanted to.

For the food, you could go either hearty or sweet. If you get the pancakes (recommend: blueberry) or waffles, you'll get this amazing almond butter (Katie's favorite - she says, "the best butter ever") to spread all over it. Going hearty means excellent omelets, classic bacon-and-eggs combos, or even one of their burgers.

The best part of this place, though, is the patio. It's tucked to the side, surrounded by greenery, and you can bring any of your pets with you - lucky! Lounging here, sipping on a coffee, helps you enjoy that little respite on Saturdays where you can figure out the skills you possess. You know, like nunchuck skills, bowhunting skills, computer hacking skills. Girls only want boyfriends who have great skills.