Waves crashing on craggy rocks below, soaring condors swooping above verdant hills in blue skies, sun shining down, fog rolling in in the distance. Those images are the ones you will keep with you when you think back to Big Sur.
This stretch along the PCH-1 is hauntingly beautiful. One of my favorite jazz artists is Chet Baker and it's his music - romantic, smokey, aching - that you can hear in your head as you wind your way down along the coast.
Big Sur is a mixture of hippie sensibilities, outdoor activities, and high-end get-away-from-it-all. We made sure to experience all of it.
Nepenthe - a classic spot where Orson Welles and Rita Hayworth used to have a retreat. This simple restaurant (try the ambrosiaburger) has excellent views whether you sit inside or out (we sat outside), very good wine list (we had a Bonny Doon) and great family history: it's been owned and run by the same family for well over 50 years.
Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park - an excellent choice if the day is very hot as here we hiked in the shade through the redwoods, to a waterfall
Ventana - we stopped here to enjoy a wonderful lunch of oysters, tuna, crab, and beautiful views. The sun was shining strongly by now and the views are truly spectacular. We sipped champagne and bloody mary's as it was brunch. We finished off our meal with a delicious dessert, which Cielo - the name of the restaurant - is known for.
Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park - this hike is an excellent choice when there are blue skies and you want views across the ocean. You can also hike inland through redwoods and clovers. Here, we saw an even more spectacular waterfall pouring onto the beach with stunning views out across the ocean (note: a wedding took place while we were there).
Esalen - this place has a very hippie vibe. Check your inhibitions at the door and strip down to join other naked people in the hot tubs. Outside, with the waves crashing below, views out over the ocean and clffs soaring above, Esalen is perfectly situated. After soaking in the hot tubs, the masseus will collect you to give an hour 15 minute Esalen massage which should work out all your kinks. Finally, you could either head back to the hot tubs or, if like me, you fall asleep the masseuse will allow you to sleep for another 30-45 minutes. Afterwards, make sure to explore the grounds to see them live the organic localvore way: their own garden with organic veggies, a communal dinner, and cabins dotted throughout the property. A wonderful retreat where you could sign up for interesting workshops (I noticed a sign noting Deepak Chopra coming to give a lecture).
There's still much to explore in Big Sur, so we will certainly be back soon.
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