The IPR Guide to San Francisco (and Beyond)

Tuesday, November 14, 2006

Monday, November 13, 2006

Check out Live Music

San Francisco has a great local music scene, plus bands come through here all the time.

What's coming up? I'm signed up for Filter Magazine's weekly San Francisco newsletter (info@filter-mag.com), plus I go to SF Weekly, the Guardian, SF Gate, Live105's concert calendar, and Pollstar for information on upcoming gigs.

Here are the venues I find myself at more often than not. They are ranked roughly in size and should give you a sense of what type of band (local, indie-up-and-coming, has-a-hit-video-on-youtube, has-a-hit-video-on-MTV, up to well-known).

Very small venues - mainly local music
Boom Boom Room - small, blues joint across the street from the Fillmore
Hemlock - punk in the Tenderloin
Make Out Room - mainly local music (various types of rock and pop) in the Mission
Elbo Room - also in the Mission, bit more jazz and dub thrown in with the rock and pop

Small venues - mix of local, West Coast (LA, Portland, Seattle), and a smattering of national or international up-and-coming indie bands
330 Ritchie a/k/a Popscene gets some of the best up-and-coming bands from all over the world (they also have a weekly party called Leisure which focuses on all the UK music from the 90's)
Cafe Du Nord - feels like you're in somebody's basement living room in the Castro (bands seen: Cold War Kids, Dr. Dog)
Bottom of the Hill - in Potrero Hill, perhaps SF's most beloved live music venue?
The Independent - on Divis, you can catch a band on the rise or on the slide back into obscurity
Mezzanine - while it gets its share of rock bands, this place focuses on electronic and hip-hop
Slim's - on Folsom and 11th, features indie rock & pop and a bit of everything else (bands seen: Kid Beyond)

Bigger Venues - more well-known bands
Great American Music Hall - my favorite venue, in the Tenderloin - mainly indie rock & pop (bands seen: OK Go, Fiery Furnaces)
The Warfield - a classic theater where bands who are really breaking big play (bands seen: Arctic Monkeys, Franz Ferdinand)
Bill Graham Civic Auditorium - impersonal big box, unfortunately (bands seen: Beck, Franz Ferdinand)
The Greek Theater - a 100+-year old outdoor amphitheater on Berkeley's campus (bands seen: Manu Chao)
The Fillmore - the venerable place that has a great sense of its history (check out all the classic posters through the years) as much as it's a place for bands currently making a name for themselves (bands seen: Bloc Party, Mogwai, Wolf Parade)

Places I want to check out but have not been include Yoshi's (jazz in the East Bay) and the Rickshaw Stop (in Hayes Valley).

Friday, November 10, 2006

Wish

This place is tiny. That's a good thing. You WILL meet other people, that's guaranteed. The drinks are strong. Wish is located at 1639 Folsom.

It's a very chill vibe in here, very San Francisco but there's definitely an LA or NYC twist. You have a good mix of 20-year olds and 30-year olds, people just looking to have a few drinks, some people looking to get they groove on early, and others just looking to chill out on the comfortable couches. You even have some hipsters post-Slim's show and club kids pre-1015 thrown in for good measure.

Get here early and it's very loungey, some house beats playing in the back. As the night moves on, it gets more and more crowded and the beats pick up. Some dancing starts (aided of course by the drinks). The bartenders know how to make drinks. They are also very willing to try out their new concoctions on you!

Very friendly in a hipster, chilled out way. Enjoy.

Thursday, November 09, 2006

Stunna Sushi

You may have been to the Sushi Groove over in Russian Hill - been there for years - an old standby. You may usually head over to Folsom around 3rd, 4th, 5th Streets rather than this part of Folsom (near 11th Street) for dinner. But, there are good spots around. Marona's on the corner of Folsom and 11th is one of the best Thai restaurants in town (see my lunch post from yesterday).

So, this Sushi Groove (called Sushi Groove South - 1516 Folsom Street - no website) has a good ratio of fresh sushi and sashimi, great vibe, good crowd, and bangin' beats.

But, you may ask: is this real authentic Japanese sushi? Yes and no. Their sushi and sashimi is fresh. But really it's all about crazy rolls and other weird concoctions that would shock a true sushi afficionado. But come on, you're either sitting at the bar or at some table listening to a dj spin some tunes while drinking sake cocktails like lemon ginger snap. Afterwards, you're going to be heading off to Butter, Slim's or Wish (see tomorrow's post for that).

This is what I'd recommend. Start off with some edamame and a sake cocktail (or ask for an unfiltered sake). Kick back, put on your stunnas, listen to some mashups, get mashed up on some drinks. At some point, lob in an order for rolls - dragon, spider, all your favorites and ones you'd not thought of. Make sure to get some sashimi or sushi as well.

Wednesday, November 08, 2006

You can get lunch on Folsom?

I'm usually here at night. Either going to catch a show at Slim's, or a drink over at Wish. Maybe a bite to eat several blocks down at Oola or Azie. Or over at Sushi Groove South, once even at Sneaky Tiki's. Late, late night of course 1015 beckons.

But lunch? Who comes here during the day? There's that crepe truck, but I don't know if they're open during the day. However, one great place to go is Manora's.

This excellent Thai place has been around for years. It's on 1600 Folsom Street and has no website. A friend of mine introduced me to this place. First meal there I tried out with her, we had the usual Thai meal: pad thai, duck curry, and washed it down with a Thai iced tea. Their pad thai is teeming with prawn, tofu, peanuts, bean sprouts, and lots of other delicious bits of goodness. Their duck curry was spicy/sweet. And their iced tea was the way it should be.

I've been back to try out different parts of their menu (yum ma keur - eggplant, chicken, prawn in a sauce, soups, and things that I don't know how to pronounce, even a clay pot) and different drinks (good selection of Thai beers like Singha). Their desserts are excellent too (fried banana with ice cream, for example).

You can definitely come for dinner, but they have amazing lunch deals - specials that are priced ridiculously cheap!

Tuesday, November 07, 2006

Perfect Weekend in Healdsburg

Healdsburg is surrounded by 3 distinct and different valleys: Dry Creek, Alexander, and Russian River. This allows you to explore one valley at a time and return to Healdsburg in the evening.

BREAKFAST
There are a host of cafes in Healdsburg with some focusing more on fresh-baked bread, others more on good coffee. Take your pick. Center Street Cafe for an eggs-and-bacon type breakfast.

LUNCH
As the valleys do not really have any places to go for lunch, it's best to do a picnic. Stopping off at Oakville Grocery (in Healdsburg) or the Jimtown Store (in Alexander Valley) and then hitting one of the wineries with picnic tables is the way to go. Try Lambert Bridge (Dry Creek) for example.

WINERIES hit in each valley

DRY CREEK VALLEY
Ferrari-Carano - over-the-top Tuscan-style villa with views / wines generally so-so, but v good affordable Syrah
Preston - bit disapointed in the wines, but nice bucolic setting
Lambert Bridge - do the reserve tasting, wonderful setting
A. Rafanelli - small, family-owned, v good cabs, merlot, and zin (by appointment only)
Yoakim Bridge - even smaller, less than 2000 cases a year, great zins + great spicy meatballs!

ALEXANDER VALLEY
Stryker - great views of the Alexander Valley, but the wines are so-so
Jordan - this was probably the 2nd favorite - Tom Jordan's French country manor w/a small tour of the grounds, excellent cabs and chardonnay / tasting is done in library with couches (by appointment only)
Alexander Valley - some good picnic tables, did not go and taste
Simi - it's big, impersonal, and the wines are not so good, apparently the tour is good

RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY
J - this was everyone's favorite. They do food pairings with tastings. Known for their brut, but all their wines are excellent esp their Nicole's Vineyard Pinot Noir. FYI - the J stands for Judy Jordan, Tom Jordan's daughter.
Hop Kiln - nice setting, inexpensive wines
Gary Farrell - stunning views and excellen pinot noirs

OTHER ACTIVITIES
Lake Sonoma has good hiking trails with expansive views over the lake and surrounding area
Armstrong Redwood Park has hiking trails among the redwoods.
The main square in Healdsburg usually has something going on - whether it's some type of market or even Shakespeare in the Park

LOUNGES in Healdsbug
Barndiva (outdoor garden)
Hotel Healdsburg lobby (big fireplace)
Lots of tasting rooms as well, but they usually close by 5.30

DINNER in Healdsburg:
Willi's Seafood (tapas and oysters - absolute favorite place to go)
Zin (pork chops, steaks + big zins to go with them)
Manzanita (wood-fired pizza and straightforward dishes)
Dry Creek Kitchen (high end dining - Charlie Palmer is the chef - did not end up going)

Monday, November 06, 2006

Perfect Weekend in Mendocino

Quick overview and tips about Mendocino wine country (a.k.a. Anderson Valley).

Up the 101 from San Francisco to Healdsburg. Good place to make a stop. We hit the main plaza where there's lots of restaurants/cafes/shops to choose from.

Continue up the 101 to Cloverdale and then to 128. The 128 is a great, curving road that takes you from vineyards with commanding views to the redwood forests so thick that you need your headlights on.

Along the 128 is also where you'll find the Anderson Valley wineries. Most are old-school, laid-back, good times. No annoying tasting fees, good conversation usually. Also, most places have amazing views or cool orchards with picnic tables. There's not really any restaurants or lunch spots (or not many at least). Therefore, make sure you have a picnic packed - another reason to stop at Healdsburg in other words.
Wineries hit:
-Navarro (I love these guys, especially their pinot noir)
-Greenwood Ridge (right next door to Navarro, with a pond as well, wines are ok but nothing spectacular)
-Husch (the best tiny tasting room you'll ever come across)

There's also:-Handley Cellars (no view, seemed a bit tired, we arrived, parked, and did not taste after we walked in briefly)
-Goldeneye (this is part of Duckhorn)
-Roederer Estate (looks big and imposing / kind of out of place)
-Scharffenberger (champagne)
-several that you need an appointment for

Then continued on the 128 to the 1. We then took the 1 a few miles north through Albion and into Little River. In Little River we stayed at Heritage House. The Heritage House has amazing views over the cove, fireplace in the room, very quiet (no TV / no phone). The night sky in Mendocino/Little River was spectacular as you might imagine.

We had dinner in Mendocino which is only a few miles north along the 1. We first walked/drove around town. We found a very casual place with a deck that overlooked the Pacific where we had a drink. Dinner reservations at Cafe Beaujolais. Excellent food / warm / inviting / they use all organic ingredients and the food was fresh. Excellent wine list - that of course highlights the local vineyards, but is not limited to just those. Next door is 955 Ukiah which seemed to be a good spot as well.

The next day we had a big breakfast and took it easy in the morning, not getting on the road until noon. We drove down the 1 in beautiful sunny weather (hit a patch of fog once) doing the usual thing of making stops where we wanted, hiked down to a beach, took lots of pictures, checked out the Pt Arenas lighthouse, hit Bodega Bay, etc.

Sunday, November 05, 2006

Friday, November 03, 2006

Go see OK Go!

OK Go was back in San Francisco last night, playing at the venerable Great American Music Hall. While they did not recreate this video on treadmills, they did close out the show by recreating this video dancemove-by-dancemove on stage.

Go see them when they come to your town.

Best wine bar in the city!

Hotel Biron is neither a hotel nor located in southwestern France. Biron is located halfway between Cognac and Bordeaux and that should give you a tipoff that this is a wine bar. Around the corner from Zuni Cafe, tucked down an alley, you see a fairly nondescript door with an orange sign jutting out simply stating b.

This cozy, intimate place is another excellent choice for starting a night out right. Their wine list is limited, but varied enough (and constantly changing) to keep it interesting. What's interesting about their wine list is that they usually mix and match local wines with wines from France. Often, you'll end up in a wine bar that's very heavily local focused or very heavily French focused. Hotel Biron allows you to compare a pinot noir from, say, Sonoma to a burgundy.

You can also order a plate of cheese (usually accompanied with some bread and fruit) to make this an appetizer place before heading off to one of the many restaurants around. Note also that the art on the wall rotates out every month or so, highlighting different local artists.

Thursday, November 02, 2006

Almost too many choices in Hayes Valley for dinner!

Given that there are so many choices of eating out in Hayes Valley, I thought I would quickly review 4 different places that should fit different budgets.

Starving Student - Under $15 - I love Frjtz. I love that they serve savory (I prefer ham, gruyere, and egg) and sweet (NUTELLA!) crepes. I love that they have a tiny little area with mismatched chairs and tables, and even a little area to lounge on. I love their patio bathed in sunshine. But most of all, I love that they serve Belgian fries with mayo. Have a Belgian beer like Chimay or Duvel to wash it all down (come on, you can get Stella everywhere).

Group of Friends - Under $30 - Before I moved to SF, I went out with a group of people sitting at a communal table, drinking steins of beers, eating weiner schnitzel and spatzle. If you want hearty meals, good atmosphere, and a place where you can easily bring your 10 closest friends and then meet the others sitting next to you, go to Suppenkuche. Obviously, great selection of German beers.

Great Date Place - Under $40 - So, I still don't quite understand exactly why this restaurant is called Sauce. There's not a different sauce highlighted with every dish, nor are any of the dishes overpowered by any sauce. Highlights here are definitely the appetizers (in fact, I would prefer this place to become a small plates share the food type of place). Their wine list is excellent.

Have your Sugar Daddy or Sugar Mama take you - $50 or higher - The classic. The old standby. Zuni Cafe (no website - 1658 Market / 415-552-2522) has been in business since 1979. And no wonder! Nothing spectacular jumps out at you from the menu. But, whether it's their oysters-on-the-half-shell, their roast chicken, their burgers, or their shoestring fries, one bite and you'll understand why they've lasted for so long. And Alice Waters' partner-of-20-years from Chez Panisse just came aboard last month. Drinks excellent here too.

Wednesday, November 01, 2006

What the flip were you doing in Hayes Valley?

Heck yeah, Flippers (no website - 482 Hayes St) is one of the best places to go for a burger. Excellent, well made, tasty. Gosh!

But, even better is to go there in order to cure the previous night's hangover. Whether you wake up at 9 or 4, they'll still be serving breakfast (pretty much all day). Kick it off with a mimosa or a never-ending-cup of coffee. You could make it a latte, even a soy latte or skim latte. But, is that 'cause you think you're fat? 'Cause you're not. You could be drinking whole if you wanted to.

For the food, you could go either hearty or sweet. If you get the pancakes (recommend: blueberry) or waffles, you'll get this amazing almond butter (Katie's favorite - she says, "the best butter ever") to spread all over it. Going hearty means excellent omelets, classic bacon-and-eggs combos, or even one of their burgers.

The best part of this place, though, is the patio. It's tucked to the side, surrounded by greenery, and you can bring any of your pets with you - lucky! Lounging here, sipping on a coffee, helps you enjoy that little respite on Saturdays where you can figure out the skills you possess. You know, like nunchuck skills, bowhunting skills, computer hacking skills. Girls only want boyfriends who have great skills.

Tuesday, October 31, 2006

Lounge Lizard

Last week I threw a few things up here a/b the Tenderloin and this week posting about Hayes Valley. Other areas to come soon, but wanted to throw out some lounges.

It's fun to go down the street to the local pub. Or to just enjoy a quick bite somewhere. But, sometimes you want more. Maybe you just scored a bonus at work. Maybe you've got a hot date. Whatever it is, you're looking for something a little bit more upscale.

So here's some lounges or chill bars to check out:

bourbon & branch - tenderloin - yeah, sugardoll, speakeasies are back
wish - soma - chilled vibe pre-club - see review next week
redwood room - union square - in the clift (bring the tourists visiting you)
anu - downtown - on 6th near Market...go after a show at the Warfield
15 romolo - north beach - hidden away, completely different than other spots in NB
tony nik's - north beach - small, intimate, and it's mao's favorite bar

and my favorite wine bars:
hotel biron - hayes valley - full review this friday
the hidden vine - tenderloin - like drinking wine in someone's living room

perhaps you crave some food with your loungey drinks:
foreign cinema - mission - laszlo for drinks and decent food, i like the courtyard especially
bambuddha lounge - tenderloin - in the phoenix (sundays pool party)
bacar - soma - go for the pork chop and a flight of pinot noir - see review next week
frisson - jackson square - great food and inventive cocktails
xyz - soma - after the sfmoma come here for a drink, and ponder the meaning of the eggs
the big four - nob hill - classic old bar (check out the men's room map of chinatown)

Friday, October 27, 2006

Bourbon & Branch

After you pick your way through an extremely sketchy part of the Tenderloin, you arrive in front of a fairly nondescript door, ring the doorbell and are buzzed in. You may have to wait a few minutes, like we did but then again we arrived 10 minutes early. (You have to make reservations, which makes sense as it's a small place and they want everyone to be able to sit down).

While waiting, we took it all in. Red velvet walls, with a brick wall behind the classic bar. From the ceiling, a hand-blown-glass chandelier hangs. Alongside one wall are a set of dark booths big enough for 2 or 3 people. Candles flicker everywhere. Old jazz tunes. It's well designed and decorated, plus warm, cozy, inviting.

We were taken to our booth, handed the bar menu. The menu is very well-thought out and it clearly shows that these people really care about their drinks. All the juice they use is freshly squeezed. There are ingredients and liquers they use I've never heard before. The choices for gin and bourbon are phenomenal. Tequila and rum are also well-represented but the vodka list is very tiny. They have a smattering of beers (mainly Belgian) and wines.

Given the above, we stuck mainly with gin and bourbon drinks. In reverse order of our favorites.
Old Cuban - not much more than a mojito really
Gin-Ger Spritz - refreshing, bit too much ginger
The Something with an L (ok, it was getting late and this was my last drink)
Elderflower gin drink - refreshing
Elderflower champagne cocktail - champagne kicked up a notch

but the hands-down best-tasting drink of the night - the Cucumber Gimlet.
The crowd has not really formed yet, in my opinion. Most people were there to try it out for the first time. Seemed mainly in their 30's.

So, just keep in mind that Bourbon & Branch is a bar. It's not a lounge, not a club, not a restaurant that also serves drinks. A bar. If you're looking for a wild, crazy time this is not the place. If you're looking for a classic bar that knows how to make drinks, then definitely go.

Thursday, October 26, 2006

Indonesian food on Post

Born in Holland, you grow up on Indonesian rijsttafel ("rice table") a big meal that has about 20 dishes arrayed around the table - everything from satay to atjar to beans with peanut sauce to nasi goreng to krupuk, and countless other dishes. There's definitely a Dutch twist to this Indonesian food - the spices are not as hot and the food leans more towards sweet than keeping the sourt/salty/sweet/spicy in balance.

It wasn't until I had a chance to travel around Indonesia that I found out how varied Indonesian food is. Sampling dishes in Yogyakarta, Solo, Bali, and Jakarta, you really get a sense of the flavors and ingredients that make up the different types of food.

In San Francisco, there are not a lot of Indonesian restaurants. However, there's a few in the Tenderloin and one in the Inner Richmond. Two are located nearly next door to each other on Post Street (near Jones).

Borobudur is at 700 Post Street and is named after the Buddhist temple near Yogyakarta. See my earlier post from a few years ago about traveling around Java to find out more about this temple. You'll find all your favorites here and some interesting dishes you might not have seen before.

Indonesian food is all about sharing. So first have some krupuk (fried prawn chips) and lumpia (Indonesia's version of an egg roll). You could then take your pick of satays - chicken, pork, or beef. Most of these are served with ketjap (a thicker, sweeter soy sauce) and the ubiquitous peanut sauce. Add the otak-otak (fried fish cake). As you move towards the bigger dishes, note that the beef rendang is done really well here. You can also try some of their chicken (ayam) dishes. For your noodles or rice, look for the mie (noodles) or nasi (rice) sections. I particularly like nasi goreng (fried rice). Make sure to ask for some serundeng (a peanut-coconut mix) and sambal ulek (really spicy chili sauce) to add to your dishes.

Most of all, be willing to experiment!

Wednesday, October 25, 2006

Saigon Sandwich versus Baguette Express

With this post, I'm going to try and set up what will be this blog's pattern: pick some neighborhood in San Francisco and then give you reviews of a lunch spot (Wednesday), dinner (Thursday), and drinks (Friday). I'll work in posts about other activities as well throughout the week.

This week, everyone's favorite crackhead hangout: the Tenderloin.

Besides the Tenderloin's varied places to get a great dinner (and score some heroin!), the Tenderloin has two Vietnamese sandwich places. I prefer one over the other. They are both located on Larkin near Eddy, about a block apart. Saigon Sandwich is at 560 Larkin while Baguette Express is at 668 Larkin.

So, what the hell's a Vietnamese sandwich? It combines a buttery French baguette with meat (usually barbecued), cilantro, pickled carrots, some spicy peppers, and sometimes mayonaisse. In other words, it combines the best of France with the SouthEast Asian melding of flavors: sweet, sour, salty, and spicy.

Baguette Express is clean, tidy and they have a machine that they can run some sugarcane through to get you your fix of sugarcane juice (haven't had it? then you haven't yet backpacked around South East Asia - you get addicted to this stuff there). It's slightly bigger than Saigon Sandwich and you can even sit down at a table or two. Saigon Sandwich is a small, cluttered little shop that has a lot more Vietnamese snacks to sell than Baguette Express. Both run around $2.50 per sandwich so it's probably the best deal in the entire city.

Baguette Express's bread has that difficult-to-get balance of crunchy-on-the-outside-soft-on-the-inside, while Saigon's is not as crunchy but still soft. The choice of meats are broader at Baguette Express and that's where Saigon Sandwich to me really shines. The meats there are just better - I think because they focus on fewer than Baguette Express. I compared a barbeque pork sandwich and a barbeque chicken sandwich from both places. I also felt that Saigon's balance of the sweet/spicy barbecue sauce, sweet/sour pickled carrots, spiciness of its peppers, cilantro, and mayo really balance well, while with Baguette Express the flavors were not as powerful.

For some reason, I've made it a ritual to head over in between the 2 NFL games on Sunday afternoon with a few bucks and pick up one of these sandwiches for the second game. Hope to see you in line around 1:30 next Sunday!

Monday, October 23, 2006

The IPR: The Relaunch

I've been getting a lot of requests to launch a blog to detail my observations and notes of what to do (eat, drink, go out, culture, travel).

This blog will be mainly focused on San Francisco and the Bay Area, but will venture out of this area as well.

Look for new information soon about the TENDERLOIN:
-LUNCH - which Vietnamese sandwich place on Larkin is the best?
-DINNER - where can you get your fix of gado gado?
-DRINKS - which hidden bar do you have to check out?

Other areas of town will be profiled in the coming weeks.

Wednesday, February 11, 2004

The Spice Islands and Siam

Indonesia is an archipelago that, for many people, may conjure up images of al-Qaeda operatives plotting to do harm to the West. Once again finding myself in a Muslim country (after Egypt and Morocco last year), I found that that is far from the truth. Instead, I was welcomed with open arms everywhere. I was rushed by people, not in hatred but in a genuine desire to practice English. Sometimes I was not rushed but snuck up on because a group of schoolchildren would shyly ask if they could take a picture with me.

After a weekend in Jakarta, I went to Central Java. In Jakarta I happened to run into 2 friends from Bali. Luckily for me, one of them (Nur) was going to Central Java as well. She, along with her friends, took me to all the places I will mention below plus to little road-side restaurants (often just sitting on mats) where I was introduced to Indonesian foods such as soto and bakso. They also tried to teach me Bahasa Indonesian. Yogyakarta and Solo, two cities in Central Java where sultans still live, are the focal points of Central Java. Surrounding these towns are the ubiquitous terraced rice paddies, soaring mountains, thundering waterfalls, and even active volcanoes. In addition, the beach is relatively nearby as well (given Muslim sensibilities, all the kids on the beach were fully clothed - even if they were in the ocean).

The highlights of my trip to Java took place on 2 separate days. In this 90% Muslim country, I found myself one day in a 9th Century Hindu temple (Prambanan) and the next day in a 9th Century Buddhist temple (Borobodur). These temples, built within 50 years of each other, point out the melting pot of religions that helped shape Indonesia: Hinduism and Buddhism from India spread throughout South East Asia and beyond. Those two religions were followed by Islam which took hold in most of Indonesia, but not in Hindu Bali. However, traditional Indonesian beliefs remain to this day so nature is respected and honored in various ceremonies. The blending of religions leads to dichotomous carvings and statues throughout the temples, such as local gods' statues inside Prambanan and Borobodur or lotus leaf symbols (traditionally Buddhist) inside Prambanan.

Apart from the very southern tip bordering Malaysia, Thailand is a Buddhist country. In previous visits, I had spent many hours in various wats dotted throughout the country. On this trip, though, I spent time in Kanchanaburi and Hua Hin. Of course, I also was in Bangkok where I overlapped with some friends from Hong Kong.

Kanchanaburi is well-known for the Bridge on the River Kwai. Besides often crossing it on foot (hopping from one trellis to the next), I also took the notorious Death Railway, which got its name due to the many POW's that died in constructing the WWII railroad for the Japanese. I headed in the direction of Burma but did not make it all the way to the now-called Myanmarr. Instead, I stopped in the jungle where waterfalls flowed and streams converged.

Hua Hin I had been to before, and used it as a way to relax on the beach after all the touring the previous weeks. Stopping in Bangkok one last time, I then flew on to Hong Kong.

Monday, December 22, 2003

Traveling the east coast from Cairns to Sydney

Kangaroos. Endless Beaches. Castlemaine XXXX. Sheilas. Koalas. Poisonous Snakes. VB. Shrimp on the Barbie. Steve Crikey! Irwin. The Great Barrier Reef. Surf breaks. Australia conjures up all those images and I was able to experience the continent Down Under over seven weeks from October to December.

After I left wintry New Zealand, I headed to the east coast of a country that was already seemingly in summer. Australia's East Coast is known the world over for its mixture of beautiful unspoiled rainforests, sandy beaches, and just off the coast of Queensland (the north eastern state) lies one of the greatest biological creatures in the world: the Great Barrier Reef. Four parts of my trip really stand out for me: Cairns' varied surrounding attractions, sailing for 3 days in the Whitsundays, 4-wheel driving and camping for 3 days on Fraser Island, and simply chilling out on off-the-beaten path places.

Cairns is a backpacker central point that attracts people the world over. Its lagoon is a perfect way to while away the day, while every night the bars and clubs are packed. Of course, you meet a lot of people and then go discovering the wonders of Queensland that surround the city with them. I swam in the waterfalls of the Tableton Atherlands, rode a horse on the beach of Cape Tribulation, spotted crocodiles in the Daintree River, chilled out in Port Douglas, swam with turtles in the Great Barrier Reef, hiked through the Daintree Rainforest, and hung out on the backpacker island of Fitzroy.

The Whitsundays are a group of islands that are immensely beautiful. Whitehaven Beach is one of the most beautiful beaches anywhere in the world with crystal-clear waters that gleam turquoise in the sun and sand that is blindingly white. The way to explore these islands is from a sailboat and so fourteen of us found ourselves for 3 days lounging, eating, sleeping, and diving from the Kiana. Each night we would set anchor in a different bay and watch the moon rise. Each morning we would get up early to get in a morning dive. Also, all our food was prepared for us so that we really did not have to lift a finger. I had never spent so much time on a boat and absolutely loved it. It helped that we had an excellent group of people who got along so well. As we made our way further down the coast, we of course met up at different spots.

Fraser Island is an unspoiled island inhabited by wild dingoes. Here, getting in a 4WD and driving around the island through forests and on the beaches is the best way to see it. At night, the 8 of us would set up camp and cook our own food on a grill. We of course made sure to bring plenty of beers and music so that we could toast our hard work of hiking, lying on beaches, swimming in lakes, watching turtles and sharks, seeing the sun set from Indian Head, spotting dingoes, and avoiding snakes! Everyone in the group had a chance to drive at some point - for me it was not only fun fishtailing through the soft sand but also driving on the other side of the car, shifting with my left instead of my right hand. Our group again got along really well - laughing continuously - that we all continued to meet up as we continued south.

While a lot of the east coast is highly developed and known the world over (think Sunshine Coast's Noosa or the Gold Coast's Surfers Paradise), there are places that are still unspoiled. My favorites of those included Mission Beach, Magnetic Island, A Town Called 1770, and (while a bit more developed) Byron Bay with its hinterland sister city of Nimbin. In Mission Beach and Magnetic Island, I was able to relax in the treetops of the rainforest and on a beach, respectively. 1770 is an intriguing destination where Captain Cook first made landfall in, guess what, 1770. It is a quiet fishing village with endless beaches and great hiking. Byron Bay has always been a counter-cultural focal point. While there, I stayed at the Arts Factory - a place started in the 1970's by draft-dodging Americans and has grown into a must-stay for backpackers all around the world. I also had some high times at Nimbin which hosts the annual Mardi Grass celebration.

Sunday, October 19, 2003

Sweet As! - New Zealand

Soaring mountains with snowcapped peaks. Rolling green hills with sheep minding their newborn lambs. Aqua fiords surrounded by steep cliffs. Powder blue ice peeking through centuries-old glaciers. Waves crashing on rough-hewn coasts. The scenery in New Zealand is stunning and dramatic. It is often referred to as God's Own Country and was where Peter Jackson filmed all three of the Lord of the Rings movies. From the sun-dappled beaches of the Bay of Islands to the snow-covered Remarkables of the South Islands, I traveled through this amazing country over the past six weeks.

The North Island and South Island are not only two distinct land-masses, their cultures and mindsets of the people are varied as well. Both have staggeringly beautiful geographical features of stunning mountains, volcanoes, thermal parks, and many earthquakes as the country lies on a fault line. You would also have difficulty meeting friendlier people than the Kiwis. One of the major differences come in the influence of the Maori in the North. Another difference is in the size of the cities. And the South has a more laid-back feeling to it.

The Maori, of Polynesian descent, arrived from Hawaiki (Raiatea in modern day French Polynesia) to find a country populated only by animals that flew or drifted over here. This unspoiled country far away from other land masses had developed its own unusual plants and animals. These were no mammals until the Pakeha - white people - introduced them (to disastrous results mainly). Most people know about the Maori through the intimidating haka the New Zealand rugby team, the All Blacks, perform before playing their foes. Maori culture of course goes deeper than that, and I was fortunate to visit several Maori marae and learn about their culture. An excellent movie, Whale Rider, helps explain much of their culture. Keri Hulme's novel The Bone People also focuses on New Zealand and the Maoris. For listening to Kiwi music, check out the excellent chilled out beats by Salmonella Dub, Rhombus, TrinityRoots, and Bic Runga.

In New Zealand, 4 million people reside (and I was told 40 million sheep). However, the distribution is focused on the North Island. While North Island city Auckland has over 1.2 million residents, only 800,000 live in the entire larger South Island. Queenstown, one of my favorite places in the country, is located in the South Island and has full time residents of only 10,000. The South Island's laid-back culture comes through when admiring the scenery, whether it is exploring the fiord at Milford Sound or crossing the Southern Alps in a train. It also shines through in drinking a Speight's ("Pride of the South") with a local.

With that introduction, you may think that all I did in New Zealand was blithely go around and take pics of the beautiful sights. Actually, if I were to come up with one word to describe this country, it would have to be: ADRENALINE. When you are surrounded by verdant hills and craggy mountain tops, at some point Kiwis apparently started thinking, "How do I get down these as quick as possible?" Therefore, I soon found myself Zorbing and lugeing in Rotorua. A Zorb is a big plastic ball that you strap yourself in and roll down a hill in. A luge is a plastic sled that you sit on and hope it doesn't turn over while hurtling down the hill. In the Bay of Islands, I hiked up a sand dune and boogie boarded down. It was on ski fields Coronet Peak and the Remarks near Queenstown ("Adventure Capital of the World") that I skied down black runs. I also learned how to snowboard there. Of course, going up the hills and mountains is also exciting. One day, I was wearing talons and using a pick axe to climb my way up, over and through the Franz Josef Glacier. I also hiked through Mordor (a.k.a. Tongariro National Park) and Abel Tasman National Park, which reminded us of Thailand.

It is not only on hills and mountains where you can get some adrenaline boosts. The water provides a lot of fun as well. Imagine going through the pitch black Waitomo caves in an inner tube looking at glow worms. Or getting on a speed boat in the Bay of Islands and getting airborne while on the way to check out the Hole in the Rock. In the Bay of Islands, I spent a lot of time on the water: a full day sailing and an afternoon fishing where I reeled in snapper, barracuda, and a John Dory. The ultimate adrenaline rushes came from throwing myself off a perfectly fine bridge and a perfectly sound airplane. In Queenstown, I bungy jumped 43 meters/134 feet off the Kawarau Bridge, where bungy jumping got its start. In Taupo, I sky dived out of an airplane at 12,000 feet reaching speeds of 200 kmh/120 mph. Both those experiences had me living off the adrenaline buzz for days.