Extremely Loud Night

My ears are still ringing from Jack White's blistering guitar and vocals work in fronting The Raconteurs.

Last night, Live105 put on its annual holiday concert, appropriately titled Not-So-Silent Night. The usually eclectic lineup of indie bands and alternative bands was again in evidence last night. In reverse order of my favorite performances:

The Shins proved very underwhelming in concert. Perhaps this is not the right venue for them, as this soft, atmospheric indie pop band may be better suited for more intimate settings. And, if you have only a 30-minute set, how do you not play your biggest hit (New Slang off the Garden State soundtrack)? Disappointed.

Modest Mouse has been making indie rock since 1993. However, their sound was not fully embraced by people (when "alternative" led by grunge masters Nirvana took over the public conscience and "indie" stayed underground). In 2004, though, with their second major-label album, they broke through to the masses with songs like Float On and Ocean Breathes Salty (both played last night). Their modest sound and laid-back attitude on stage paled in comparison to the top 3 bands of the night.

The Killers put on a glitzy finale befitting their Las Vegas roots. They knew what people wanted, balanced it with new offerings from their latest album and benefitted from being able to play for a full hour. Post-punk with keyboards to recall the 80's, they blasted through the songs everyone wanted - everyone singing along to Hot Fuss favorites like Somebody Told Me, Jenny Was a Friend of Mine, and Mr. Brightside. At one poin, in All These Things That I've Done, Brandon Flowers - in true showman form - got up on top of his piano turned the microphone around and allowed the audience to sing the chorus. Great show.

Silversun Pickups - a band I've written about previously - give you the fuzzed out bliss of songs that Billy Corgan could have written. Sounding like a mix of Pixies-meets-Smashing Pumpkins-by-way-of-My Bloody Valentine (or maybe I should just say post-grunge?), Brian Aubert puts his falsetto voice over pounding drums and distorted guitars. A tight, 30 minute performance that proclaimed they are every bit as good as their hype.

Jack White, the showman, the performer, was in full effect last night. While in The White Stripes, he shares the stage with only one other person, in the Raconteurs he is one of five (they have a touring keyboardist) and actually only one of two guitarists. He often doesn't sing lead and he only had one of the guitar solos. Yet, he was the star of the night. He commands such a presence on stage, and was able to guide the band from a near-country ballad to pop favorite Steady As She Goes to feedback-drenched rawk. They stole the show and were the best performance of the night.

Wonder who they'll line up next year...

Tagine!

When I traveled around Morocco, I would eat tagine whenever I got a chance. Tagine is both the type of pot it's cooked in and the meal itself. There's a picture here of what a tagine looks like. What is the food? It's usually a mixture of lamb, prunes or dates, almonds or some other nuts, chick peas, and couscous: a real spicy/sweet mix.

You don't have to travel all the way to Morocco to enjoy a good tagine, though. In fact, there's a great French-Moroccan restaurant called Baraka in Potrero Hill. Perched on the corner of 18th and Connecticut, it has a cozy, intimate feel to it.

Their menu is an interesting mix of typical French bistro offerings (foie gras, steamed mussels), Moroccan specialties (stuffed dates, tagine), and offerings from all over (prawns ceviche, dungeness crab cakes).

When we went, we had the prawns ceviche (presented on a plate - we were expecting to receive more than we got, but they were excellent) and the stuffed dates (stuffed with chorizo, cabrales, and jamon serrano). We had originally chosen a glass of wine each (she chose a rose, I chose a pinot noir), but the manager/sommelier came over and suggested that the rose we were going to get would not be as good as another rose. He preferred us to try the other rose and, if we did not like it, he would happily spend the rest of the night drinking the bottle himself.

He was right, the wine was excellent - from Provence, by a winemaker called Dott. Look for it when you are dining at Baraka. The great thing about rose is that it does not overpower the food you are eating and it accompanies things like Asian food and turkey exceptionally well. Pairing it up with a tagine works out well as well.

The tagine: the lamb was succulent, the prunes were bursting with sweet flavor, the almonds gave an interesting textural balance. Just an excellent all-around dish. With the ambience, nearly the whole bottle gone, and the wonderful food, this restaurant is an excellent date place. After, when you are walking back to your car, make sure that if it's a clear night like it was when we were there, to look back across to San Francisco's skyline with its lights twinkling.

Hill of Goat

I had dinner on Monday night in Potrero Hill. So, this week I thought I'd focus on this part of town. In particular, I like the corner of 18th and Connecticut with its assortment of restaurants, cafes and bars: Chez Papa, Chez Maman, Baraka, Aperto, Goat Hill Pizza, Lingba, Eliza's, Farley's to name a few.

The pizza at Goat Hill is some of the best in the city. It's a great place to go with a bunch of friends and have a lazy lunch of pizza and a pitcher.

Their crust is pretty unique - it's not the thick deep dish Chicago style, nor is it the thinner NYC style. It's a medium crust, and what makes it unique is that it is made from sourdough. They've been around since 1975, so they definitely know what they're doing and people still keep coming back.

The sauce is homemade as well and the toppings range from the traditional to the gourmet (think everything from pepperoni and sausage to sun-dried tomatoes and feta). Of course, you can come by here at night as well - it's usually pretty boisterous, fun atmosphere especially on the "all-you-can-eat" Mondays.

After Work Downtown

You are spoiled for choice when it comes to drinking options in the Financial District. I'll highlight four spots that might fit your mood.

Opened last year, Americano at the Hotel Vitale (one of the Joie de Vivre hotels) quickly became the trendy spot for financial types and the Gap-ettes who love them. It's a pretty strong singles scene and fits in a bit more in New York than laid-back San Francisco. Good mixed drinks, impossibly long lines, lots of wine choices, and surprisingly good food. During the nicer months the outside patio with its picnic tables is the place to hang out for a higher-priced afterwork drink.

Across the street in the Ferry Building, there are two great spots. First, MarketBar also features an outdoor patio (one side drinks only, the other side dinner only) and a great bar whose bartenders really know their stuff. They will sometimes whip up their own concoctions for you to try. They have an ever-changing wine-by-the-glass list. Food is excellent. Not as expensive as Americano, but still fairly hefty.

The other place I recommend in the Ferry Building is inside - it's the Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant. It's a wine shop with very knowledgeable people who work there, so you can simply buy some wine and leave. They allow you to bring in any food you wish, although they also have some basic snacks on offer. What I like doing is going to Cowgirl Creamery in the Ferry Building, purchasing some cheese, and then heading over to see what wines-by-the-glass are on offer that night. Every couple weeks or so, they feature a wine flight by a particular vineyard with the winemaker there to talk about their particular offerings. This place is reasonably priced.

Finally, if you're simply looking to grab a pitcher, catch the game, and snack on some mini tacos or hot dogs, then Beale Street Bar & Grill (no website - 133 Beale Street) is your spot. They have great deals during happy hour. They always have the games on (this was definitely World Cup HQ this past summer). And the people who work there are very friendly. So are the prices.

Aqua

One restaurant in the Financial District that stands out and has stood the test of time is Aqua (252 California Street). I first ate here 6 years ago during the first dot-com boom, and even then it had already been around 9 years. At 15 years, Aqua is still going strong - even through changes of chefs and changing trends amongst other restaurants.

If you put stock into what various guides say, Aqua is ranked very high. Zagat's has Aqua in its top 10 San Francisco fine dining experiences and the Michelin Guide has Aqua in the top 5 restaurants in the entire Bay Area.

All of those high rankings do mean that it's expensive. Therefore, if you are someone who does not necessarily care for impeccable service and stunning decor (and paying up for that), this is not the place for you. If, however, you are someone who does care for that and tremendous seafood, then this is definitely a place you would want to go: special date, celebrating a business deal, or when the 'rents are in town.

So, what is the food? It's seafood, prepared in a California way with French overtones. Expect appetizers like hamachi with kaffir lime, albacore carpaccio, and even foie gras. Entrees run the gamet from ahi tuna to lobster (with ginger and bok choy) to more exotic offerings. An amazing wine list hitting all corners of the globe pairs up with all the seafood. They also have multi-course tasting menus in which the sommelier will help you pair each course with a different wine.

I wear my stunna glasses at nite

Fuck, boca's closing.

Last time I was there it all started at Harry's Bar (2020 Fillmore, no website) where I had some sliders and a few beers. Met up with some buddies of mine. The night continued on to R Bar (1176 Sutter - no website). Now, R Bar is known for a few things and it just meant more drinks for all of us. This place is a classic - make sure you check it out.

While there, we ran into some friends-of-friends who told us about the two year anniversary of Element Lounge. We hung out, met some young ladies from Reno, and eventually moved on to Lush Lounge - I'm not a big fan of this place. Whatever, one of my buddies was drunk and it was on the way BACK to R Bar. So, back in R Bar. Good god. It was a rough night, but it did not end there.

I continued on to boca. They had a friggin' bouncy castle inside the bar. boca WAS one of my favorite places in the city - a very mixed crowd of hipsters and hip-hoppers and and art fans and booze fans and post-Warfield-concert-goers and lesbians making out on the dance floor and pre-Club-goers and post-bar-goers. The place itself is run by these guys and has rotating artwork on the walls. Plus, they manage to attract DJ's from all over. I don't know where in 2007 it will resurface.

Name of this post? One of the DJ's at boca played the song.

Cafe Algiers

So, after a huge Thanksgiving dinner & lots of drinking this past weekend, I'm back.

I thought that this week I'd focus on downtown, the Financial District - the FiDi if you will. My favorite place, if not one of my favorite places in the city, is Cafe Algiers (50 Beale Street - no website). It's small, even cramped and family-owned.

It's a real mish-mash of people, actually from the Algerian owner to the various people who have strayed from all over the world arrayed behind the lunch counter. Their coffee is excellent (don't just take my word for it - go to http://coffeeratings.com/ and you'll likely see them in 3rd place).

I often come in for a single shot of espresso as I wait for my bagel to be toasted. They put on some shmear, a healthy serving of lox, some tomato, a bit of pepper, and of course a heaping spoonful of capers. Other people I see going for the croissants or other pastries. For lunch, you can't go wrong any of their sandwiches, but especially their spicey turkey.

You can read it here first, or you can wait...

...for magazines like 7x7 to catch on to what's going in the lounge scene or SF Chronicle to find out what's going on in wine bars.

Probably better to read it here first...

Epic Sundays

Last year, May had five Sundays in it. San Francisco and the Bay Area have so much to offer. These Sundays were spent with one other person, a few friends, or a large group of friends.

First Sunday, May 1. Drive up the 1 through the Marin Headlands and beyond to finally stop at Tomales Bay. This picturesque bay is known for its oysters. A beach spreads out where you find picnic tables and small barbecues. Fresh oysters directly from the bay are dropped on each barbecue until the shells pop open. It's all very simple and anything beyond oysters (drinks, salads, etc.) is brought from home. Drive back down the 1 to Rodeo Beach for a look through the Golden Gate Bridge over San Francisco and then a bright fiery sunset over the Pacific. Dinner was from my favorite restaurant in Sausalito - Fish (think freshest seafood possible, redwood picnic tables, and wine or beer out of mason jars).

Second Sunday, May 8. It rained actually, but the day before I saw the Washington DC Nationals and SF Giants engage in a classic back-and-forth battle at PacBell, I mean SBC, I mean AT&T Park. I'm not sure if a baseball stadium is better than this one - it's a retro-park that not only sits right smack in the heart of the city, but is on the Bay itself. A 15-minute stroll down the Embarcadero brings you to the Ferry Building where the MarketBar beckons with its excellent appetizers and wide selection of wines.

Third Sunday, May 15. Bay to Breakers. A 12 kilometer (7.5 mile) run or walk from the SF Bay to the ocean. Tortillas are thrown, people dress up in costume (or run naked), bands play along the route, DJ's spin, and everyone has a good time. Afterwards, at Footstock, I relaxed with a beer, had a burrito and checked out some bands.

Fourth Sunday, May 22. After the night before attending a wedding at Auberge du Soleil, the day was focused on hitting Napa's wineries. Cakebread Cellars, Duckhorn Vineyards, and Bremer Family should be on everyone's short list of places to taste. And Sterling, while not the greatest wines, does have an unbeatable view. Then, the evening was spent in Sausalito at a friend's housewarming party/barbecue under a (nearly) full moon.

Fifth Sunday, May 29. From the 101 south, a winding drive through the hills along 17 down to Santa Cruz for good old-fashioned boardwalk on the beach action. Then a drive along the coast on the classic PCH Route 1 to Half Moon Bay, where just beyond you find yourself at the Moss Beach Distillery. There, while sipping a beer and munching on fried artichoke hearts, you can lean back in chairs made for 2 under a blanket, watching pelicans fly by and sailboats float by as the sun sets over the Pacific. A drive back along another winding road (92) brings you back to the 101 and back up into San Francisco.

Who are Tony and Nik?

A block up from Washington Square, on Stockton, is a tiny little place. It's far from the craziness of Columbus Avenue, even though it's only a block away.

A neighborhood drop-in, the local, but with a bit of style thrown in, Tony Nik's (1534 Stockton, no website) has been operating since the 1930's and it's a real throwback to what a bar should be: bartenders who give good service, strong drinks, and that's pretty much it.

Hanging out at the bar works well when you're there with some friends, but if you want some more privacy head to the back for the tables tucked away with some candles. The crowd is very mixed - I don't feel it gets too many tourists, age range is from young to old, many people looking for that drink to start the night, or to end the evening.

Mad props to Lisa Mao, as this is her favorite bar in the city.

Italian Restaurant in North Beach

How do you pick and choose amongst the Italian restaurants in North Beach. There are several great options mixed in with the touristy ones.

I have not been to Trattoria Contadina (but friends all highly recommend it). Mario's Bohemian is a great place for a snack (think paninis or a plate of lasagna). MangoRosa actually is only half Italian (and half Brazilian) - they somehow pull it off, the food is excellent. For a classic, hearty Southern Italian meal, Tomasso's is your best bet and they've been around for over 70 years.

My favorite place, though, is Ristorante Ideale (1309 Grant Ave, no website). The food is tasty and the service is excellent. The wine list is fairly extensive and well-priced. The waiters spend time with you helping to understand the specials.

I'd highly recommend their pear/mascarpone/prosciutto as an appetizer. Find out what the specials are, or go with one of their pasta dishes (pumpkin ravioli is very good). They have a host of classic Italian desserts, and if you've been having some wines the waiters will probably bring over a shot of lemon liquer over to end the meal.

The portions are not heavy and not huge - it's very European in that sense. In addition, I believe the waitstaff is all from Italy, which adds to the authenticity of this place.

My favorite place in North Beach

I was having dinner on Sunday night at Burma Superstar in the Inner Richmond (review will come up in the next few weeks), when my friend and I got to talking about different neighborhoods. One we started to talk about was North Beach.

North Beach, for me, has been the entryway into San Francisco. A friend of mine has lived for years in an apartment on Stockton near Chestnut and I've crashed on her couch time and again before I moved here. Then, when I did move to the Bay Area two friends of mine were living at that apartment and I ended up crashing there again from time to time.

I always liked to walk from her place down Stockton, past the big church where Marilyn Monroe and Joe Dimaggio got married, along Washington Square (pausing to watch the tai chi practitioners), up Union Street, along the shops of Grant, and arrive at a place that's survived the test of time.

It's 50 years since they introduced the West Coast to espresso, and Caffe Trieste is still going strong. Yes, it's overrun by tourists, I know that. But if you have a chance to go by during the day and sit and just observe, you'll see the tourists flit in and out. What remains and what sits there for hours on end is a true neighborhood of San Francisco originals.

There's the painter, the crazy guy, the two guys who always bicker, the bedraggled looking hippie who just happens to be a famous poet, the woman with the dogs, and on and on. There's true cameraderie amongst these lost souls, who find family in a coffee shop in North Beach.

This little coffee shop in this neighborhood made me realize San Francisco is very different from most other cities in the US. There's a real European aspect to this city. Sure, the architecture reminds some people of Europe, but to me it's the people - especially those that gather here. It's the pace of life, it's the wanting to connect with others over, simply, a cup of coffee.

This post should be about lunch, but the food's so-so. Maybe this will do? They don't have non-fat milk, so order up a real cappucino, sit back for a couple hours, and enjoy.

More music links

Wanted to turn you on to this band that has been getting bigger every time they come through San Francisco. Check their progression: Cafe Du Nord, Popscene, a street fair in Oakland, Rickshaw Stop, Fillmore (with Wolfmother), and Bill Graham Civic (Not-So-Silent-Night).

Silversun Pickups may as well be called Silversun Pixies or Silversun Pumpkins. Think fuzzy guitars mixed with bittersweet melodies. Lazy Eye is just a nice slice of circa 1993 fuzzed-out bliss and Well Thought Out Twinkles is "Billy Corgan's best song that he never wrote" according to a magazine.

Stream it here - http://www.myspace.com/silversunpickups or http://www.silversunpickups.com/

Here's some other bands I've been listening to / going to shows recently (bands mentioned yesterday have links here). Most of these you can stream some music or download some songs.

Cold War Kids - http://www.myspace.com/coldwarkids or http://www.coldwarkids.com/
Arctic Monkeys - http://www.myspace.com/arcticmonkeys
Mogwai - http://www.myspace.com/mogwai
Manu Chao - http://www.manuchao.net/
Wolf Parade - http://www.myspace.com/wolfparade
The Lovemakers - http://www.myspace.com/thelovemakers
Futureheads - http://www.thefutureheads.com/home.php
M Ward - http://www.myspace.com/mward
The Shins - http://www.theshins.com/
Badly Drawn Boy - http://www.myspace.com/badlydrawnboy
Fiery Furnaces - http://www.thefieryfurnaces.com/
Voxtrot - http://www.myspace.com/voxtrot
Arcade Fire - http://www.myspace.com/arcadefire
Bloc Party - http://www.myspace.com/blocparty
Franz Ferdinand - http://www.myspace.com/franzferdinand
Dr. Dog - http://www.myspace.com/drdog
Wolfmother - http://www.wolfmother.com/
The Killers - http://www.thekillersmusic.com/
Modest Mouse - http://www.modestmousemusic.com/
The Raconteurs - http://www.theraconteurs.com/
Deerhoof - http://deerhoof.killrockstars.com/
Imogen Heap - http://www.imogenheap.co.uk/
Kid Beyond - http://www.kidbeyond.com/
Zero 7 - http://www.zero7.co.uk/
Sia - http://www.siamusic.net/
Jose Gonzalez - http://www.jose-gonzalez.com/
Tesoro - http://www.tesoromusic.com/
Royksopp - http://www.royksopp.com/
OK Go - http://www.okgo.net/news.aspx
Manu Chao - http://www.manuchao.net/


The Hype Machine aggregates MP3's from blogs all over - http://hype.non-standard.net/

IndieFeed - http://feeds.feedburner.com/IndiefeedAlt/modernRock
Stereogum (blog) - http://stereogum.com/mp3_index.xml
KEXP (radio station in Seattle) - http://kexp.org/podcasting/podcasting.asp

Go to http://www.team-love.com/ (Conor Oberst's site) to download the new Jenny Lewis album - also Tilly & the Wall, and other Bright Eyes' friends...

Go to http://www.tvtrecords.com/download/ for TVT Records' selected downloads

Kill Rock Stars - http://www.killrockstars.com/

SubPop - http://www.subpop.com/

Check out Live Music

San Francisco has a great local music scene, plus bands come through here all the time.

What's coming up? I'm signed up for Filter Magazine's weekly San Francisco newsletter (info@filter-mag.com), plus I go to SF Weekly, the Guardian, SF Gate, Live105's concert calendar, and Pollstar for information on upcoming gigs.

Here are the venues I find myself at more often than not. They are ranked roughly in size and should give you a sense of what type of band (local, indie-up-and-coming, has-a-hit-video-on-youtube, has-a-hit-video-on-MTV, up to well-known).

Very small venues - mainly local music
Boom Boom Room - small, blues joint across the street from the Fillmore
Hemlock - punk in the Tenderloin
Make Out Room - mainly local music (various types of rock and pop) in the Mission
Elbo Room - also in the Mission, bit more jazz and dub thrown in with the rock and pop

Small venues - mix of local, West Coast (LA, Portland, Seattle), and a smattering of national or international up-and-coming indie bands
330 Ritchie a/k/a Popscene gets some of the best up-and-coming bands from all over the world (they also have a weekly party called Leisure which focuses on all the UK music from the 90's)
Cafe Du Nord - feels like you're in somebody's basement living room in the Castro (bands seen: Cold War Kids, Dr. Dog)
Bottom of the Hill - in Potrero Hill, perhaps SF's most beloved live music venue?
The Independent - on Divis, you can catch a band on the rise or on the slide back into obscurity
Mezzanine - while it gets its share of rock bands, this place focuses on electronic and hip-hop
Slim's - on Folsom and 11th, features indie rock & pop and a bit of everything else (bands seen: Kid Beyond)

Bigger Venues - more well-known bands
Great American Music Hall - my favorite venue, in the Tenderloin - mainly indie rock & pop (bands seen: OK Go, Fiery Furnaces)
The Warfield - a classic theater where bands who are really breaking big play (bands seen: Arctic Monkeys, Franz Ferdinand)
Bill Graham Civic Auditorium - impersonal big box, unfortunately (bands seen: Beck, Franz Ferdinand)
The Greek Theater - a 100+-year old outdoor amphitheater on Berkeley's campus (bands seen: Manu Chao)
The Fillmore - the venerable place that has a great sense of its history (check out all the classic posters through the years) as much as it's a place for bands currently making a name for themselves (bands seen: Bloc Party, Mogwai, Wolf Parade)

Places I want to check out but have not been include Yoshi's (jazz in the East Bay) and the Rickshaw Stop (in Hayes Valley).

Wish

This place is tiny. That's a good thing. You WILL meet other people, that's guaranteed. The drinks are strong. Wish is located at 1639 Folsom.

It's a very chill vibe in here, very San Francisco but there's definitely an LA or NYC twist. You have a good mix of 20-year olds and 30-year olds, people just looking to have a few drinks, some people looking to get they groove on early, and others just looking to chill out on the comfortable couches. You even have some hipsters post-Slim's show and club kids pre-1015 thrown in for good measure.

Get here early and it's very loungey, some house beats playing in the back. As the night moves on, it gets more and more crowded and the beats pick up. Some dancing starts (aided of course by the drinks). The bartenders know how to make drinks. They are also very willing to try out their new concoctions on you!

Very friendly in a hipster, chilled out way. Enjoy.

Stunna Sushi

You may have been to the Sushi Groove over in Russian Hill - been there for years - an old standby. You may usually head over to Folsom around 3rd, 4th, 5th Streets rather than this part of Folsom (near 11th Street) for dinner. But, there are good spots around. Marona's on the corner of Folsom and 11th is one of the best Thai restaurants in town (see my lunch post from yesterday).

So, this Sushi Groove (called Sushi Groove South - 1516 Folsom Street - no website) has a good ratio of fresh sushi and sashimi, great vibe, good crowd, and bangin' beats.

But, you may ask: is this real authentic Japanese sushi? Yes and no. Their sushi and sashimi is fresh. But really it's all about crazy rolls and other weird concoctions that would shock a true sushi afficionado. But come on, you're either sitting at the bar or at some table listening to a dj spin some tunes while drinking sake cocktails like lemon ginger snap. Afterwards, you're going to be heading off to Butter, Slim's or Wish (see tomorrow's post for that).

This is what I'd recommend. Start off with some edamame and a sake cocktail (or ask for an unfiltered sake). Kick back, put on your stunnas, listen to some mashups, get mashed up on some drinks. At some point, lob in an order for rolls - dragon, spider, all your favorites and ones you'd not thought of. Make sure to get some sashimi or sushi as well.

You can get lunch on Folsom?

I'm usually here at night. Either going to catch a show at Slim's, or a drink over at Wish. Maybe a bite to eat several blocks down at Oola or Azie. Or over at Sushi Groove South, once even at Sneaky Tiki's. Late, late night of course 1015 beckons.

But lunch? Who comes here during the day? There's that crepe truck, but I don't know if they're open during the day. However, one great place to go is Manora's.

This excellent Thai place has been around for years. It's on 1600 Folsom Street and has no website. A friend of mine introduced me to this place. First meal there I tried out with her, we had the usual Thai meal: pad thai, duck curry, and washed it down with a Thai iced tea. Their pad thai is teeming with prawn, tofu, peanuts, bean sprouts, and lots of other delicious bits of goodness. Their duck curry was spicy/sweet. And their iced tea was the way it should be.

I've been back to try out different parts of their menu (yum ma keur - eggplant, chicken, prawn in a sauce, soups, and things that I don't know how to pronounce, even a clay pot) and different drinks (good selection of Thai beers like Singha). Their desserts are excellent too (fried banana with ice cream, for example).

You can definitely come for dinner, but they have amazing lunch deals - specials that are priced ridiculously cheap!

Perfect Weekend in Healdsburg

Healdsburg is surrounded by 3 distinct and different valleys: Dry Creek, Alexander, and Russian River. This allows you to explore one valley at a time and return to Healdsburg in the evening.

BREAKFAST
There are a host of cafes in Healdsburg with some focusing more on fresh-baked bread, others more on good coffee. Take your pick. Center Street Cafe for an eggs-and-bacon type breakfast.

LUNCH
As the valleys do not really have any places to go for lunch, it's best to do a picnic. Stopping off at Oakville Grocery (in Healdsburg) or the Jimtown Store (in Alexander Valley) and then hitting one of the wineries with picnic tables is the way to go. Try Lambert Bridge (Dry Creek) for example.

WINERIES hit in each valley

DRY CREEK VALLEY
Ferrari-Carano - over-the-top Tuscan-style villa with views / wines generally so-so, but v good affordable Syrah
Preston - bit disapointed in the wines, but nice bucolic setting
Lambert Bridge - do the reserve tasting, wonderful setting
A. Rafanelli - small, family-owned, v good cabs, merlot, and zin (by appointment only)
Yoakim Bridge - even smaller, less than 2000 cases a year, great zins + great spicy meatballs!

ALEXANDER VALLEY
Stryker - great views of the Alexander Valley, but the wines are so-so
Jordan - this was probably the 2nd favorite - Tom Jordan's French country manor w/a small tour of the grounds, excellent cabs and chardonnay / tasting is done in library with couches (by appointment only)
Alexander Valley - some good picnic tables, did not go and taste
Simi - it's big, impersonal, and the wines are not so good, apparently the tour is good

RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY
J - this was everyone's favorite. They do food pairings with tastings. Known for their brut, but all their wines are excellent esp their Nicole's Vineyard Pinot Noir. FYI - the J stands for Judy Jordan, Tom Jordan's daughter.
Hop Kiln - nice setting, inexpensive wines
Gary Farrell - stunning views and excellen pinot noirs

OTHER ACTIVITIES
Lake Sonoma has good hiking trails with expansive views over the lake and surrounding area
Armstrong Redwood Park has hiking trails among the redwoods.
The main square in Healdsburg usually has something going on - whether it's some type of market or even Shakespeare in the Park

LOUNGES in Healdsbug
Barndiva (outdoor garden)
Hotel Healdsburg lobby (big fireplace)
Lots of tasting rooms as well, but they usually close by 5.30

DINNER in Healdsburg:
Willi's Seafood (tapas and oysters - absolute favorite place to go)
Zin (pork chops, steaks + big zins to go with them)
Manzanita (wood-fired pizza and straightforward dishes)
Dry Creek Kitchen (high end dining - Charlie Palmer is the chef - did not end up going)

Perfect Weekend in Mendocino

Quick overview and tips about Mendocino wine country (a.k.a. Anderson Valley).

Up the 101 from San Francisco to Healdsburg. Good place to make a stop. We hit the main plaza where there's lots of restaurants/cafes/shops to choose from.

Continue up the 101 to Cloverdale and then to 128. The 128 is a great, curving road that takes you from vineyards with commanding views to the redwood forests so thick that you need your headlights on.

Along the 128 is also where you'll find the Anderson Valley wineries. Most are old-school, laid-back, good times. No annoying tasting fees, good conversation usually. Also, most places have amazing views or cool orchards with picnic tables. There's not really any restaurants or lunch spots (or not many at least). Therefore, make sure you have a picnic packed - another reason to stop at Healdsburg in other words.
Wineries hit:
-Navarro (I love these guys, especially their pinot noir)
-Greenwood Ridge (right next door to Navarro, with a pond as well, wines are ok but nothing spectacular)
-Husch (the best tiny tasting room you'll ever come across)

There's also:-Handley Cellars (no view, seemed a bit tired, we arrived, parked, and did not taste after we walked in briefly)
-Goldeneye (this is part of Duckhorn)
-Roederer Estate (looks big and imposing / kind of out of place)
-Scharffenberger (champagne)
-several that you need an appointment for

Then continued on the 128 to the 1. We then took the 1 a few miles north through Albion and into Little River. In Little River we stayed at Heritage House. The Heritage House has amazing views over the cove, fireplace in the room, very quiet (no TV / no phone). The night sky in Mendocino/Little River was spectacular as you might imagine.

We had dinner in Mendocino which is only a few miles north along the 1. We first walked/drove around town. We found a very casual place with a deck that overlooked the Pacific where we had a drink. Dinner reservations at Cafe Beaujolais. Excellent food / warm / inviting / they use all organic ingredients and the food was fresh. Excellent wine list - that of course highlights the local vineyards, but is not limited to just those. Next door is 955 Ukiah which seemed to be a good spot as well.

The next day we had a big breakfast and took it easy in the morning, not getting on the road until noon. We drove down the 1 in beautiful sunny weather (hit a patch of fog once) doing the usual thing of making stops where we wanted, hiked down to a beach, took lots of pictures, checked out the Pt Arenas lighthouse, hit Bodega Bay, etc.

Wine Country Links

NAPA VALLEY

Duckhorn
http://www.duckhornvineyards.com/

Bremer Family
http://www.bremerfamilywinery.com/

Cakebread Cellars
http://www.cakebreadcellars.com/

Peju
http://peju.com/
Robert Sinskey
http://robertsinskey.com/

Frog's Leap
http://www.frogsleap.com/flash/intro.html
St. Supery
http://www.stsupery.com/

Sterling
http://www.sterlingvineyards.com/

V.Sattui
http://www.vsattui.com/

Viansa
http://www.viansa.com/
Far Niente
http://www.farniente.com/

Opus One
http://www.opusonewinery.com/

Darioush
http://www.darioush.com/

Girgich Hills
http://grgich.com/index.html

Artesahttp://www.artesawinery.com/

Trefethenhttp://www.trefethen.com/home.html

Schramsberg
http://www.schramsberg.com/

Clos du Valhttp://www.closduval.com/v1/

Hess Collectionhttp://www.hesscollection.com/

Stag's Leap Wine Cellarshttp://www.cask23.com/index-flash.htm


SONOMA

Tara Bella Winery (cabs)
http://www.tarabellawinery.com/

Gary Farrel (pinot noirs)
http://www.garyfarrell.com/

Ravenswood (zins)
http://www.ravenswood-wine.com/rwd/about/begin.do

Jordan
http://www.jordanwinery.com/

BR Cohn
http://www.brcohn.com/

Cline
http://www.clinecellars.com/

and...any of the vineyards along Westside Road.


MENDOCINO

Navarro
http://www.navarrowine.com/neighbors.php

Esterlina
http://www.esterlinavineyards.com/visit_us.html

Goldeneye
http://www.goldeneyewinery.com/visiting_the_winery/

Husch
http://huschvineyards.com/

Roederer Estate
http://www.roedererestate.net/estate/tastingrm.html

Handley
http://www.handleycellars.com/taste.html

Go see OK Go!

OK Go was back in San Francisco last night, playing at the venerable Great American Music Hall. While they did not recreate this video on treadmills, they did close out the show by recreating this video dancemove-by-dancemove on stage.

Go see them when they come to your town.

Best wine bar in the city!

Hotel Biron is neither a hotel nor located in southwestern France. Biron is located halfway between Cognac and Bordeaux and that should give you a tipoff that this is a wine bar. Around the corner from Zuni Cafe, tucked down an alley, you see a fairly nondescript door with an orange sign jutting out simply stating b.

This cozy, intimate place is another excellent choice for starting a night out right. Their wine list is limited, but varied enough (and constantly changing) to keep it interesting. What's interesting about their wine list is that they usually mix and match local wines with wines from France. Often, you'll end up in a wine bar that's very heavily local focused or very heavily French focused. Hotel Biron allows you to compare a pinot noir from, say, Sonoma to a burgundy.

You can also order a plate of cheese (usually accompanied with some bread and fruit) to make this an appetizer place before heading off to one of the many restaurants around. Note also that the art on the wall rotates out every month or so, highlighting different local artists.

Almost too many choices in Hayes Valley for dinner!

Given that there are so many choices of eating out in Hayes Valley, I thought I would quickly review 4 different places that should fit different budgets.

Starving Student - Under $15 - I love Frjtz. I love that they serve savory (I prefer ham, gruyere, and egg) and sweet (NUTELLA!) crepes. I love that they have a tiny little area with mismatched chairs and tables, and even a little area to lounge on. I love their patio bathed in sunshine. But most of all, I love that they serve Belgian fries with mayo. Have a Belgian beer like Chimay or Duvel to wash it all down (come on, you can get Stella everywhere).

Group of Friends - Under $30 - Before I moved to SF, I went out with a group of people sitting at a communal table, drinking steins of beers, eating weiner schnitzel and spatzle. If you want hearty meals, good atmosphere, and a place where you can easily bring your 10 closest friends and then meet the others sitting next to you, go to Suppenkuche. Obviously, great selection of German beers.

Great Date Place - Under $40 - So, I still don't quite understand exactly why this restaurant is called Sauce. There's not a different sauce highlighted with every dish, nor are any of the dishes overpowered by any sauce. Highlights here are definitely the appetizers (in fact, I would prefer this place to become a small plates share the food type of place). Their wine list is excellent.

Have your Sugar Daddy or Sugar Mama take you - $50 or higher - The classic. The old standby. Zuni Cafe (no website - 1658 Market / 415-552-2522) has been in business since 1979. And no wonder! Nothing spectacular jumps out at you from the menu. But, whether it's their oysters-on-the-half-shell, their roast chicken, their burgers, or their shoestring fries, one bite and you'll understand why they've lasted for so long. And Alice Waters' partner-of-20-years from Chez Panisse just came aboard last month. Drinks excellent here too.

What the flip were you doing in Hayes Valley?

Heck yeah, Flippers (no website - 482 Hayes St) is one of the best places to go for a burger. Excellent, well made, tasty. Gosh!

But, even better is to go there in order to cure the previous night's hangover. Whether you wake up at 9 or 4, they'll still be serving breakfast (pretty much all day). Kick it off with a mimosa or a never-ending-cup of coffee. You could make it a latte, even a soy latte or skim latte. But, is that 'cause you think you're fat? 'Cause you're not. You could be drinking whole if you wanted to.

For the food, you could go either hearty or sweet. If you get the pancakes (recommend: blueberry) or waffles, you'll get this amazing almond butter (Katie's favorite - she says, "the best butter ever") to spread all over it. Going hearty means excellent omelets, classic bacon-and-eggs combos, or even one of their burgers.

The best part of this place, though, is the patio. It's tucked to the side, surrounded by greenery, and you can bring any of your pets with you - lucky! Lounging here, sipping on a coffee, helps you enjoy that little respite on Saturdays where you can figure out the skills you possess. You know, like nunchuck skills, bowhunting skills, computer hacking skills. Girls only want boyfriends who have great skills.

Lounge Lizard

Last week I threw a few things up here a/b the Tenderloin and this week posting about Hayes Valley. Other areas to come soon, but wanted to throw out some lounges.

It's fun to go down the street to the local pub. Or to just enjoy a quick bite somewhere. But, sometimes you want more. Maybe you just scored a bonus at work. Maybe you've got a hot date. Whatever it is, you're looking for something a little bit more upscale.

So here's some lounges or chill bars to check out:

bourbon & branch - tenderloin - yeah, sugardoll, speakeasies are back
wish - soma - chilled vibe pre-club - see review next week
redwood room - union square - in the clift (bring the tourists visiting you)
anu - downtown - on 6th near Market...go after a show at the Warfield
15 romolo - north beach - hidden away, completely different than other spots in NB
tony nik's - north beach - small, intimate, and it's mao's favorite bar

and my favorite wine bars:
hotel biron - hayes valley - full review this friday
the hidden vine - tenderloin - like drinking wine in someone's living room

perhaps you crave some food with your loungey drinks:
foreign cinema - mission - laszlo for drinks and decent food, i like the courtyard especially
bambuddha lounge - tenderloin - in the phoenix (sundays pool party)
bacar - soma - go for the pork chop and a flight of pinot noir - see review next week
frisson - jackson square - great food and inventive cocktails
xyz - soma - after the sfmoma come here for a drink, and ponder the meaning of the eggs
the big four - nob hill - classic old bar (check out the men's room map of chinatown)

Bourbon & Branch

After you pick your way through an extremely sketchy part of the Tenderloin, you arrive in front of a fairly nondescript door, ring the doorbell and are buzzed in. You may have to wait a few minutes, like we did but then again we arrived 10 minutes early. (You have to make reservations, which makes sense as it's a small place and they want everyone to be able to sit down).

While waiting, we took it all in. Red velvet walls, with a brick wall behind the classic bar. From the ceiling, a hand-blown-glass chandelier hangs. Alongside one wall are a set of dark booths big enough for 2 or 3 people. Candles flicker everywhere. Old jazz tunes. It's well designed and decorated, plus warm, cozy, inviting.

We were taken to our booth, handed the bar menu. The menu is very well-thought out and it clearly shows that these people really care about their drinks. All the juice they use is freshly squeezed. There are ingredients and liquers they use I've never heard before. The choices for gin and bourbon are phenomenal. Tequila and rum are also well-represented but the vodka list is very tiny. They have a smattering of beers (mainly Belgian) and wines.

Given the above, we stuck mainly with gin and bourbon drinks. In reverse order of our favorites.
Old Cuban - not much more than a mojito really
Gin-Ger Spritz - refreshing, bit too much ginger
The Something with an L (ok, it was getting late and this was my last drink)
Elderflower gin drink - refreshing
Elderflower champagne cocktail - champagne kicked up a notch

but the hands-down best-tasting drink of the night - the Cucumber Gimlet.
The crowd has not really formed yet, in my opinion. Most people were there to try it out for the first time. Seemed mainly in their 30's.

So, just keep in mind that Bourbon & Branch is a bar. It's not a lounge, not a club, not a restaurant that also serves drinks. A bar. If you're looking for a wild, crazy time this is not the place. If you're looking for a classic bar that knows how to make drinks, then definitely go.

Indonesian food on Post

Born in Holland, you grow up on Indonesian rijsttafel ("rice table") a big meal that has about 20 dishes arrayed around the table - everything from satay to atjar to beans with peanut sauce to nasi goreng to krupuk, and countless other dishes. There's definitely a Dutch twist to this Indonesian food - the spices are not as hot and the food leans more towards sweet than keeping the sourt/salty/sweet/spicy in balance.

It wasn't until I had a chance to travel around Indonesia that I found out how varied Indonesian food is. Sampling dishes in Yogyakarta, Solo, Bali, and Jakarta, you really get a sense of the flavors and ingredients that make up the different types of food.

In San Francisco, there are not a lot of Indonesian restaurants. However, there's a few in the Tenderloin and one in the Inner Richmond. Two are located nearly next door to each other on Post Street (near Jones).

Borobudur is at 700 Post Street and is named after the Buddhist temple near Yogyakarta. See my earlier post from a few years ago about traveling around Java to find out more about this temple. You'll find all your favorites here and some interesting dishes you might not have seen before.

Indonesian food is all about sharing. So first have some krupuk (fried prawn chips) and lumpia (Indonesia's version of an egg roll). You could then take your pick of satays - chicken, pork, or beef. Most of these are served with ketjap (a thicker, sweeter soy sauce) and the ubiquitous peanut sauce. Add the otak-otak (fried fish cake). As you move towards the bigger dishes, note that the beef rendang is done really well here. You can also try some of their chicken (ayam) dishes. For your noodles or rice, look for the mie (noodles) or nasi (rice) sections. I particularly like nasi goreng (fried rice). Make sure to ask for some serundeng (a peanut-coconut mix) and sambal ulek (really spicy chili sauce) to add to your dishes.

Most of all, be willing to experiment!

Saigon Sandwich versus Baguette Express

With this post, I'm going to try and set up what will be this blog's pattern: pick some neighborhood in San Francisco and then give you reviews of a lunch spot (Wednesday), dinner (Thursday), and drinks (Friday). I'll work in posts about other activities as well throughout the week.

This week, everyone's favorite crackhead hangout: the Tenderloin.

Besides the Tenderloin's varied places to get a great dinner (and score some heroin!), the Tenderloin has two Vietnamese sandwich places. I prefer one over the other. They are both located on Larkin near Eddy, about a block apart. Saigon Sandwich is at 560 Larkin while Baguette Express is at 668 Larkin.

So, what the hell's a Vietnamese sandwich? It combines a buttery French baguette with meat (usually barbecued), cilantro, pickled carrots, some spicy peppers, and sometimes mayonaisse. In other words, it combines the best of France with the SouthEast Asian melding of flavors: sweet, sour, salty, and spicy.

Baguette Express is clean, tidy and they have a machine that they can run some sugarcane through to get you your fix of sugarcane juice (haven't had it? then you haven't yet backpacked around South East Asia - you get addicted to this stuff there). It's slightly bigger than Saigon Sandwich and you can even sit down at a table or two. Saigon Sandwich is a small, cluttered little shop that has a lot more Vietnamese snacks to sell than Baguette Express. Both run around $2.50 per sandwich so it's probably the best deal in the entire city.

Baguette Express's bread has that difficult-to-get balance of crunchy-on-the-outside-soft-on-the-inside, while Saigon's is not as crunchy but still soft. The choice of meats are broader at Baguette Express and that's where Saigon Sandwich to me really shines. The meats there are just better - I think because they focus on fewer than Baguette Express. I compared a barbeque pork sandwich and a barbeque chicken sandwich from both places. I also felt that Saigon's balance of the sweet/spicy barbecue sauce, sweet/sour pickled carrots, spiciness of its peppers, cilantro, and mayo really balance well, while with Baguette Express the flavors were not as powerful.

For some reason, I've made it a ritual to head over in between the 2 NFL games on Sunday afternoon with a few bucks and pick up one of these sandwiches for the second game. Hope to see you in line around 1:30 next Sunday!

The IPR: The Relaunch

I've been getting a lot of requests to launch a blog to detail my observations and notes of what to do (eat, drink, go out, culture, travel).

This blog will be mainly focused on San Francisco and the Bay Area, but will venture out of this area as well.

Look for new information soon about the TENDERLOIN:
-LUNCH - which Vietnamese sandwich place on Larkin is the best?
-DINNER - where can you get your fix of gado gado?
-DRINKS - which hidden bar do you have to check out?

Other areas of town will be profiled in the coming weeks.

The Spice Islands and Siam

Indonesia is an archipelago that, for many people, may conjure up images of al-Qaeda operatives plotting to do harm to the West. Once again finding myself in a Muslim country (after Egypt and Morocco last year), I found that that is far from the truth. Instead, I was welcomed with open arms everywhere. I was rushed by people, not in hatred but in a genuine desire to practice English. Sometimes I was not rushed but snuck up on because a group of schoolchildren would shyly ask if they could take a picture with me.

After a weekend in Jakarta, I went to Central Java. In Jakarta I happened to run into 2 friends from Bali. Luckily for me, one of them (Nur) was going to Central Java as well. She, along with her friends, took me to all the places I will mention below plus to little road-side restaurants (often just sitting on mats) where I was introduced to Indonesian foods such as soto and bakso. They also tried to teach me Bahasa Indonesian. Yogyakarta and Solo, two cities in Central Java where sultans still live, are the focal points of Central Java. Surrounding these towns are the ubiquitous terraced rice paddies, soaring mountains, thundering waterfalls, and even active volcanoes. In addition, the beach is relatively nearby as well (given Muslim sensibilities, all the kids on the beach were fully clothed - even if they were in the ocean).

The highlights of my trip to Java took place on 2 separate days. In this 90% Muslim country, I found myself one day in a 9th Century Hindu temple (Prambanan) and the next day in a 9th Century Buddhist temple (Borobodur). These temples, built within 50 years of each other, point out the melting pot of religions that helped shape Indonesia: Hinduism and Buddhism from India spread throughout South East Asia and beyond. Those two religions were followed by Islam which took hold in most of Indonesia, but not in Hindu Bali. However, traditional Indonesian beliefs remain to this day so nature is respected and honored in various ceremonies. The blending of religions leads to dichotomous carvings and statues throughout the temples, such as local gods' statues inside Prambanan and Borobodur or lotus leaf symbols (traditionally Buddhist) inside Prambanan.

Apart from the very southern tip bordering Malaysia, Thailand is a Buddhist country. In previous visits, I had spent many hours in various wats dotted throughout the country. On this trip, though, I spent time in Kanchanaburi and Hua Hin. Of course, I also was in Bangkok where I overlapped with some friends from Hong Kong.

Kanchanaburi is well-known for the Bridge on the River Kwai. Besides often crossing it on foot (hopping from one trellis to the next), I also took the notorious Death Railway, which got its name due to the many POW's that died in constructing the WWII railroad for the Japanese. I headed in the direction of Burma but did not make it all the way to the now-called Myanmarr. Instead, I stopped in the jungle where waterfalls flowed and streams converged.

Hua Hin I had been to before, and used it as a way to relax on the beach after all the touring the previous weeks. Stopping in Bangkok one last time, I then flew on to Hong Kong.

Traveling the east coast from Cairns to Sydney

Kangaroos. Endless Beaches. Castlemaine XXXX. Sheilas. Koalas. Poisonous Snakes. VB. Shrimp on the Barbie. Steve Crikey! Irwin. The Great Barrier Reef. Surf breaks. Australia conjures up all those images and I was able to experience the continent Down Under over seven weeks from October to December.

After I left wintry New Zealand, I headed to the east coast of a country that was already seemingly in summer. Australia's East Coast is known the world over for its mixture of beautiful unspoiled rainforests, sandy beaches, and just off the coast of Queensland (the north eastern state) lies one of the greatest biological creatures in the world: the Great Barrier Reef. Four parts of my trip really stand out for me: Cairns' varied surrounding attractions, sailing for 3 days in the Whitsundays, 4-wheel driving and camping for 3 days on Fraser Island, and simply chilling out on off-the-beaten path places.

Cairns is a backpacker central point that attracts people the world over. Its lagoon is a perfect way to while away the day, while every night the bars and clubs are packed. Of course, you meet a lot of people and then go discovering the wonders of Queensland that surround the city with them. I swam in the waterfalls of the Tableton Atherlands, rode a horse on the beach of Cape Tribulation, spotted crocodiles in the Daintree River, chilled out in Port Douglas, swam with turtles in the Great Barrier Reef, hiked through the Daintree Rainforest, and hung out on the backpacker island of Fitzroy.

The Whitsundays are a group of islands that are immensely beautiful. Whitehaven Beach is one of the most beautiful beaches anywhere in the world with crystal-clear waters that gleam turquoise in the sun and sand that is blindingly white. The way to explore these islands is from a sailboat and so fourteen of us found ourselves for 3 days lounging, eating, sleeping, and diving from the Kiana. Each night we would set anchor in a different bay and watch the moon rise. Each morning we would get up early to get in a morning dive. Also, all our food was prepared for us so that we really did not have to lift a finger. I had never spent so much time on a boat and absolutely loved it. It helped that we had an excellent group of people who got along so well. As we made our way further down the coast, we of course met up at different spots.

Fraser Island is an unspoiled island inhabited by wild dingoes. Here, getting in a 4WD and driving around the island through forests and on the beaches is the best way to see it. At night, the 8 of us would set up camp and cook our own food on a grill. We of course made sure to bring plenty of beers and music so that we could toast our hard work of hiking, lying on beaches, swimming in lakes, watching turtles and sharks, seeing the sun set from Indian Head, spotting dingoes, and avoiding snakes! Everyone in the group had a chance to drive at some point - for me it was not only fun fishtailing through the soft sand but also driving on the other side of the car, shifting with my left instead of my right hand. Our group again got along really well - laughing continuously - that we all continued to meet up as we continued south.

While a lot of the east coast is highly developed and known the world over (think Sunshine Coast's Noosa or the Gold Coast's Surfers Paradise), there are places that are still unspoiled. My favorites of those included Mission Beach, Magnetic Island, A Town Called 1770, and (while a bit more developed) Byron Bay with its hinterland sister city of Nimbin. In Mission Beach and Magnetic Island, I was able to relax in the treetops of the rainforest and on a beach, respectively. 1770 is an intriguing destination where Captain Cook first made landfall in, guess what, 1770. It is a quiet fishing village with endless beaches and great hiking. Byron Bay has always been a counter-cultural focal point. While there, I stayed at the Arts Factory - a place started in the 1970's by draft-dodging Americans and has grown into a must-stay for backpackers all around the world. I also had some high times at Nimbin which hosts the annual Mardi Grass celebration.

Sweet As! - New Zealand

Soaring mountains with snowcapped peaks. Rolling green hills with sheep minding their newborn lambs. Aqua fiords surrounded by steep cliffs. Powder blue ice peeking through centuries-old glaciers. Waves crashing on rough-hewn coasts. The scenery in New Zealand is stunning and dramatic. It is often referred to as God's Own Country and was where Peter Jackson filmed all three of the Lord of the Rings movies. From the sun-dappled beaches of the Bay of Islands to the snow-covered Remarkables of the South Islands, I traveled through this amazing country over the past six weeks.

The North Island and South Island are not only two distinct land-masses, their cultures and mindsets of the people are varied as well. Both have staggeringly beautiful geographical features of stunning mountains, volcanoes, thermal parks, and many earthquakes as the country lies on a fault line. You would also have difficulty meeting friendlier people than the Kiwis. One of the major differences come in the influence of the Maori in the North. Another difference is in the size of the cities. And the South has a more laid-back feeling to it.

The Maori, of Polynesian descent, arrived from Hawaiki (Raiatea in modern day French Polynesia) to find a country populated only by animals that flew or drifted over here. This unspoiled country far away from other land masses had developed its own unusual plants and animals. These were no mammals until the Pakeha - white people - introduced them (to disastrous results mainly). Most people know about the Maori through the intimidating haka the New Zealand rugby team, the All Blacks, perform before playing their foes. Maori culture of course goes deeper than that, and I was fortunate to visit several Maori marae and learn about their culture. An excellent movie, Whale Rider, helps explain much of their culture. Keri Hulme's novel The Bone People also focuses on New Zealand and the Maoris. For listening to Kiwi music, check out the excellent chilled out beats by Salmonella Dub, Rhombus, TrinityRoots, and Bic Runga.

In New Zealand, 4 million people reside (and I was told 40 million sheep). However, the distribution is focused on the North Island. While North Island city Auckland has over 1.2 million residents, only 800,000 live in the entire larger South Island. Queenstown, one of my favorite places in the country, is located in the South Island and has full time residents of only 10,000. The South Island's laid-back culture comes through when admiring the scenery, whether it is exploring the fiord at Milford Sound or crossing the Southern Alps in a train. It also shines through in drinking a Speight's ("Pride of the South") with a local.

With that introduction, you may think that all I did in New Zealand was blithely go around and take pics of the beautiful sights. Actually, if I were to come up with one word to describe this country, it would have to be: ADRENALINE. When you are surrounded by verdant hills and craggy mountain tops, at some point Kiwis apparently started thinking, "How do I get down these as quick as possible?" Therefore, I soon found myself Zorbing and lugeing in Rotorua. A Zorb is a big plastic ball that you strap yourself in and roll down a hill in. A luge is a plastic sled that you sit on and hope it doesn't turn over while hurtling down the hill. In the Bay of Islands, I hiked up a sand dune and boogie boarded down. It was on ski fields Coronet Peak and the Remarks near Queenstown ("Adventure Capital of the World") that I skied down black runs. I also learned how to snowboard there. Of course, going up the hills and mountains is also exciting. One day, I was wearing talons and using a pick axe to climb my way up, over and through the Franz Josef Glacier. I also hiked through Mordor (a.k.a. Tongariro National Park) and Abel Tasman National Park, which reminded us of Thailand.

It is not only on hills and mountains where you can get some adrenaline boosts. The water provides a lot of fun as well. Imagine going through the pitch black Waitomo caves in an inner tube looking at glow worms. Or getting on a speed boat in the Bay of Islands and getting airborne while on the way to check out the Hole in the Rock. In the Bay of Islands, I spent a lot of time on the water: a full day sailing and an afternoon fishing where I reeled in snapper, barracuda, and a John Dory. The ultimate adrenaline rushes came from throwing myself off a perfectly fine bridge and a perfectly sound airplane. In Queenstown, I bungy jumped 43 meters/134 feet off the Kawarau Bridge, where bungy jumping got its start. In Taupo, I sky dived out of an airplane at 12,000 feet reaching speeds of 200 kmh/120 mph. Both those experiences had me living off the adrenaline buzz for days.

Tales of the South Pacific

The dark blue to purple South Pacific gives way to aqua and turquoise waters of lagoons broken by a white line of waves breaking on reefs. In the middle of the clear waters of the lagoon are islands with green mountains rising high, often encircled by clouds. The beaches are white and yellow sands, with swaying palm trees. These were the images over the past month as I spent time in Tahiti, Moorea, Huahine, Raiatea, Bora Bora, Maupiti, and Rarotonga.

Each of the islands is more beautiful than the next and each have their own character. Tahiti, and especially its capital Papeete, is the bustling center of French Polynesia. Moorea, just half an hour away by boat, is more relaxed than Tahiti. Raiatea is the ancient Hawaiki, which is sacred to Polynesians everywhere (including Hawaiians and the Maori of New Zealand). Bora Bora is deservedly famous for its beautiful lagoon, the best of all the islands. Maupiti is a tiny island that is very undeveloped and is covered with beautiful flowers. While Polynesia has a heavy French influence, Rarotonga has a decidedly English and Kiwi bent.

On these islands, I was able to hike to ancient marae, bike around the islands, and explore the interiors. However, spending time in the lagoons is what is really the best about the islands. From boating in outrigger canoes to swimming underwater, I explored each of the lagoons. I was able to see mulit-colored corals and numerous tropical fish. The highlights included swimming with black-tipped sharks and sting rays.

Several islands are very developed like Tahiti and Bora Bora. In fact, Bora Bora has three more resorts slated to be completed in the next years by the Intercontinental, Ritz-Carlton, and the Four Seasons. Each of these hotels will have more than 100 bungalows each. Some islands, like Huahine and Maupiti are very undeveloped, with Maupiti having taken a "no hotels" policy and having only simple pensions. I preferred the latter.

Of all the islands, though, Huahine was my favorite. Here, life is on a slower pace and I was able to meet many of the people who live on the island. I rented a bike and drove around the island watching families gather for spirited games of petanque and being invited to test my jumping abilities on a bike course laid out by local kids. I heard a church before I came to it. It was a Sunday and rising from the attendants beautiful Polynesian hymns were being sung. I slowed to a halt and just listened. Then, as the service was ending, all the mainly older women came out in brightly covered pareos. In Huahine and elsewhere I mainly ate at roulottes, where most of the locals gathered every night to eat fresh seafood. My favorite was poisson cru: raw tuna prepared in lime juice, coconut milk, and fresh vegetables.

I also got a lasting reminder of my trip to Polynesia in Huahine. I found out that most wood-carved tikis are actually made in Indonesia or China, and decided I wanted a piece of art that was actually made in Polynesia. Polynesians invented the tattoo years ago. George, the tattooist, has half his body covered in tattoos: representing his Polynesian past. His un-tattooed side represents the more Western future. Two days after I got the tattoo, I ran into George at a local breakfast spot and his friends admired his handiwork: the tiki on my ankle.

Paulistas and Cariocas

Returning to Brazil from Bolivia, I once again arrived in Sao Paulo. This city, the New York of Brazil, is its country's financial center packed with exclusive clubs, trendy bars, and the latest restaurants. As in any large city (and Sao Paulo is the second largest city in the world), there is a distinct difference of classes. Everyone who can afford it moves around by tinted windowed car which are parked by valets. While stopped at red lights, people ranging from little kids to old men will try to sell everything from the ubiquitous Chiclets to toys to cell phone charges. Meanwhile, teenagers will juggle tennis balls hoping to receive a few reals.

Other places in the Southeast of Brazil which I visited included the old colonial towns in Minas Gerais and along the coast. In Minas Gerais, old mining towns including Tiradentes and Ouro Preto developed in the 17th and 18th Centuries. After the mines dried up, these towns were virtually abandoned. However, that helped preserve their historical nature. Hilly streets covered by cobblestone lead to churches, stately mansions, and old government buildings. From the mines in the hills, the gold that was discovered had to be brought to the ports in order to ship back to Europe. This old Caminho de Ouro (Gold Trail), led to the colonial port of Paraty. Surrounded by craggy rocks, soaring green mountains, and beautiful beaches, this old town is also preserved. It is now a tourist destination for Paulistas, Cariocas, and international travelers. The town is dotted with pousadas (small hotels), restaurants, and craft shops, plus in the bay are countless islands, beaches, and boats to take you to them all.

Rio de Janeiro, la Cidade Maravhilosa, is a truly marvelous city which has a near-perfect combination of natural beauty, magnificent beaches (with girls in extremely small bikinis), nightlife, and city atmosphere. Relaxing on two of the most famous beaches in the world, Copacabana and Ipanema, overlooked by Christ the Redeemer on top of Corcavado, while Sugarloaf Mountain (Pao de Acucar) provided the classic sunset and nighttime view over the city was an excellent way to spend the days during my last week in Brazil. Of course, no visit to Rio is complete without catching a futbol game at Maracana - in which I saw Bahia lose to Fluminense. The nightlife in Rio is legendary. While here, friends made sure to take me out to trendy restaurants, bars, and clubs, plus some old-school favorites to show me how Cariocas live.

Brazil has a lot of problems, as do many developing countries in South America. Its GDP per capita of $7,400 ranks right around the world average and there is a vast difference between the poor living in favelas and the more well off living in guarded, gated apartments of Rio and Sao Paulo. However, trying to sum up Brazil is very difficult. The country is comprised of disparate groups of people and cultures. From caboclos in Amazonia to blonde-haired girls in Floripa. African-influenced food and song in Bahia to forro akin to country music even further north. Rio's beach culture to Sao Paulo's financial prowess. However, Brazilians have many similarities. To me, it seemed that there is an unflagging optimism about the future and a love of life as seen in everything from an enjoyment of sports, attacking a churrascario with gusto, drinking caiparinhas, to dancing to the wee hours of the morning. Lula, the recently elected populist president, will guide Brazil over the next years and Brazil-watchers both internally and externally are waiting to see how his bold promises will pan out.

Crossing the border

Early morning. 5 a.m. The Triple Frontier of Brazil-Colombia-Peru on the Rio Amazonas.

It is still dark when the boat slips into the docks of the village of Santa Rosa, on the banks of the river in Peru. We clamber out groggily to the officia de la policia. After handing over my documents, I am soon handed back my passport and think, ''That was easy.'' I get back on board.

Ten minutes later. ''Raimundo!'' yells out the customs officer.

After noone says anything I respond, Si senor?

''Migracion.''

I get back out the boat and am guided to another office. A candle provides the only light.

The officer looks at my passport, looks at me, and asks (in Spanish), ''Where`s your Brazil stamp?''

No stamp Brazil, I respond in my broken Spanish.

''You need a Brazil exit stamp to exit Brazil and a Peru entrance stamp to enter Peru.''

Stamp here for Brazil for Peru? I babble unintelligibly.

''No, you should have gotten a stamp in Brazil. You need to go back there and then I can let you in Peru.``

No Iquitos boat go?

''No.''

No?

The officer sighs. The candle flickers. A mosquito buzzes.

He looks at me again and states, in English, ''Twenty dollars.''

Que? I respond in Spanish.

''Twenty dollars and you go to Iquitos today.''

Oh. OH! (I get it.)

I take out $20, hand it over and a big smile crosses the officer`s face. He puts the dollars in a drawer, stamps my passport, wishes me a good stay in Peru, asks where I`m going (commenting on the beauty of Machu Picchu) and wishes me, ''Good voyages!'' in English.

I step outside. A rooster crows. The sun is rising.

Amazonian and Andean Adventures

Leaving Brazilian beaches reluctantly behind, I headed to a place whose very name conjures up images of jungles and wildlife. The Amazon. Still a vastly undiscovered place with unidentified animal species, uncharted rivers, and unknown plants. Some 120 kilometers south from the Triple Frontier of Brazil, Colombia, and Peru, on a tributary to the Rio Amazonas, I would explore the jungle.

First I took a taxi-boat to a small town, where I waited until there were 5 other people who also wanted to go further to another even smaller town. After a long wait, there were 6 of us who were finally on our way. There, I needed to hire another boat. I had been given the name of Claudio Paixao. After 15 minutes of searching, I found Paixao on the docks. He promptly pulled out a bottle of cachaca and said we should do a couple shots together before setting off. Finally, seven hours after I had set out that morning, I arrived at a simple jungle lodge next to an Indian village.

Canoeing through flooded forests, trekking through the jungle on terra firma, watching grey and pink dolphins cavort in the river, seeing numerous tropical birds, fishing for piranha, and observing traditional Indian ceremonies I learned about the Amazon. What was truly interesting here was that I was the only tourist. The others there included a film crew from Bogota that was making a documentary to promote Colombia tourism (two words you don't often see together); two ornithologists, one from the US and one from Brazil, who were capturing beautifully colored birds that they believed to be new species; and another scientist who was gathering the many kinds of spiders and insects prevalent in this part of the jungle. All of them let me tag along and taught me an immense amount about the jungle.

Before exploring the jungle, I spent time in cities along the Amazon, including Manaus and Leticia (Colombia). Manaus is a port city, however it is 1500km up the Amazon. Leticia, 1500km further upriver is laidback, many travelers pass through, and the people are extremely friendly. Returning to Leticia from the jungle, I crossed into Peru by boat up the Amazon. Five hundred kilometers further upriver, I made it to Iquitos, another port city. It´s a great travelers´ hangout and there was able to sample some of the local nightlife with two Peruvians I had met, including lots of cervezas and pisco sours (pretty much the Peruvian national drink).

From there, I headed to Lima which allowed me to get oriented to Peru. The town is unfortunately very polluted, a perpetual smog covering the city. However, there are some good museums which give you a better understanding of the many pre-Incan civilizations, interesting historic churches, and it has a good nightlife. I went out with two Americans I had met until about 3 a.m. in a pena featuring traditional Peruvian music and dancing (cervezas and pisco sours figured in again). A candidate for national food would have to be ceviche, of which I was sure to have my share. If you have never had ceviche: raw fish marinated in a lime and chili combination served with sweet potatoes and toasted corn.

I next made it to Cuzco, in the Andes. It was winter there so crisp clear skies, sunny weather, but as the sun sets it gets extremely cold. For the first time in a long while, I was cold, wearing sweaters, alpaca wool hats, NorthFace jackets, and thick socks. The city is always celebrating something, there is a great sense of history, the surrounding scenery is beautiful, lots of friendly people, and there's an amazing amount to do - all of which makes it difficult to leave. I spent an amazing time in and around this city.

Cuzco was the center of the universe according to the Incas and numerous Inca ruins surround the city dating back to the 15th Century and before. While visiting Inca ruins in the Sacred Valley and around Cuzco such as Pisaq, Ollantaytambo, and Sachsaywama, and small towns perched high in the Andes such as Chinchero, I learned about the Quecha and Inca cultures. Hiking up steep ancient staircases can take a toll on your lungs in high altitude, but chewing on some coca leafs usually helps adjust to the altitude (and as many shirts proclaim, the coca leaf is not a drug!).

The most impressive part of staying here, though, was hiking the Inca Trail and seeing Machu Picchu. Unknown to the Spaniards who destroyed everything in their path, these ruins were lost to the jungles and were not rediscovered until the early 20th Century. The best way to appreciate them is to hike through the Andes over the Inca Trail (I went with SAS Travel who I would recommend if you're thinking of going). It tests your fitness, stamina, and lungs due to the high altitude. The Trail crosses beautiful mountain scenery, passing orchids and other unique Andean plants and animals along the way. Passing ruins along the way, you finally end up at a sungate, through which you can see snow-capped mountains in the distance with Machu Picchu laid out below you. These ruins, in a spectacular setting perfectly aligned with the summer and winter solstice sunrises, were perhaps the most sacred to the Incas. Terraced agricultural fields, crumbling ruins, grazing llamas and alpacas, and cloud-circled mountains rising up behind the complex create a truly mystical setting.

Returning to Cuzco, I ran into a friend from New York I had not seen in a couple years. The world´s small. I took a nine hour train trip through stunning countryside with Andean peaks covered with snow as weathered farmers tended fields and shepherded their flocks of sheep, llamas, and alpacas. Brightly clad women wearing incongruous bowler hats with babies tied behind their backs. Small stands selling fruits and woollen clothing at cities where the train stopped.

The train ended in Puno, perched on the edge of Lake Titicaca. This lake is the highest navigable lake in the world, with part of the lake Peru's and the eastern part Bolivia's. I crossed over to the laid-back village of Copacabana on the Bolivian side. First, 18 people (including me) piled into a minivan for 2 hours. Then, I hopped into a tuk-tuk and was biked to the border. Checking in at Peruvian and Bolivian immigration was straightforward and soon was on the final leg of the journey - another minivan.

In Copacabana, met quite a few people from all over the world. As it turned out, two travelers from London and I would spend the next several days together exploring parts of Bolivia. Near Copacabana is Isla del Sol, an island that has featured in both pre-Inca and Inca history. For the Incas, this was the island where their empire mythologically started. Hiking over undulating terrain from one end to the other allows you to get brilliant 360 degree views over the entire surrounding area. It's surrounded by azure waters and in the distance, the Cordillera Real mountain range seemingly floats above the water.

From Copacabana, we took a bus to La Paz. Approaching the city, you suddenly plunge over the edge of a crater down steep streets into a bustling city punctuated by many colorful markets. Overlooking the city is the majestic snow-capped Illimani. From here, I explored the pre-Inca ruins of Tiwanaku and spent time in the city haggling over the many things for sale from the ubiquitous alpaca wool products to concoctions in the Witches Market - I had to pass on the llama fetus a witch tried to sell me. Also spent time in the numerous museums (my favorite: the Museo de la Coca) and churches, but the best part of hanging out in La Paz is meeting people and exploring the various streets.

Throughout Colombia, Peru, and Bolivia, I met lots of local friendly people and the usual assortment of world travelers from Australia, Canada, England, Ireland, and Israel. I also found out where the Americans have been hiding - Peru. After seeing virtually none over the past six months, suddenly from Lima to Cuzco, I met American college students on summer break who had been studying or volunteering abroad, world travelers, Gringo Trail travelers, and tourists from Atlanta, New York, San Francisco, and everywhere in between.

Praias bonitas

Swaying palm trees. White sandy beaches. Emerald and aqua waters. Coral reefs. Tropical fish. Dolphins. Turtles. Acaraje. Caiparinhas. Cervejas. Capoeira. Drums. Forro. From Caraivia in Bahia to Fortaleza in Ceara, I spent this past month on Brazil´s northeastern beaches. I made my way everywhere via bus, boat, buggy, truck, car, and sometimes just walking - I´ve now logged over 7000km on the buses (4400 miles). Picking which was the most beautiful or most memorable is extremely difficult as you´ll hopefully see below.

The beaches in Bahia south of Salvador are each more amazing than the next. Except for one, the roads are merely sand and one did not even have electricity. Caraiva's rustic simplicity, Trancoso's hippy vibes, Itacare's white-water rafting, Marau's deserted island feel, Morro de Sao Paulo's 4 very different beaches - some virtually deserted. While there, from an old fort, watched dolphins playing in the bay while the sun set. Went to a full moon party and saw the total eclipse of the moon from the beach. All of these beaches are travelers´ hangouts which allowed me to meet great locals, Brazilian tourists (mainly from Sao Paulo or Rio), and international travelers; bit by bit, my Portugese has improved. Plus, these towns all have good nightlife.

For some of the best nightlife, though, I headed to Salvador, the capital of Bahia. Here, the African influence can be felt everywhere, from most of the population being black to the typical Baihan women in their hoop skirts and white headdresses selling acaraje (deepfried heart-attack inducing with shrimps and hotsauce that makes your eyes water). The old part of the city is called Pelourinho, perched on a bluff that´s so steep that there's an elevator to get from the lower city to the upper city. In this part of town, the old baroque and rococco colonial churches sit alongside pastel-painted houses on meandering streets and squares. At night, bands come out to play, drummers parade through the streets, and people dance. Every night, there is something going on and I usually tried to find my way there. Throughout Bahia, groups perform capoeira, a form of martial arts to the accompaniment of drums and a fishing rod looking contraption that is plucked. Capoeira is a sublime martial art that is as beautiful as a dance. (I owe a huge thanks to Adriano Borges´ cousins and mom for making sure I was having fun and for putting up with me for a week.)

I continued north, making my way through Maceio, Recife, Natal, and Fortaleza. These cities all have around 1 million or more population, large beach-focused areas (where I stayed), and good nightlife. Most of these cities, too were fought over by the Dutch, French, English, and Portugese in the 17th century, so they all have small historical areas. In this part of Brazil, forro is the usual nighttime activity - live music and dancing accompanied by either caiparinhas, caiparoskas, or beers.

The small towns in these areas are excellent as well. An hour-and-a-half north of Salvador, Praia do Forte has natural piscinas (pools) where you can lounge during low tide and home to the TAMAR reserve which protects endangered turtles. Olinda, on a hill overlooking Recife, boasts numerous churches, cathedrals, monasteries, and museums lining hilly streets where artisans ply their crafts. Praia da Pipa is a laid-back beach town midway between Recife and Natal high on a cliff above sandy beaches and good surf below that´s a popular travelers stop. Ponta Negra and other beaches around Natal are dominated by huge windswept dunes. Around Fortaleza are numerous beaches and fishing villages.

I also made it to Fernando de Norronha, an archipelago of islands that is home to some of Brazil´s best beaches and also its best diving. Noronha is a beautiful paradise with most of it a national park. Dolphins swam with us while on a boatride to an excellent snorkeling spot. While diving, besides tropical fish and coral, saw barracudas, turtles, moray eels, and stingrays. I was also literally swimming with sharks, seeing at least ten and in most cases close enough to touch.